The Central Highlands - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 150

T 01575 582293, W glenmarkie.co.uk. Beyond West
Freuchies , a long and bumpy road leads to this remote

activity centre, where you can take horseriding lessons
(£26/hr) in a spectacularly rural landscape.

ACCOMMODATION
Glenisla Hotel In Kirkton of Glenisla, 10 miles north
of Alyth T 01575 582223, W glenisla-hotel.com. Cosy
hotel, which doubles as a good place for classy ho me-made
bar food and convivial drinking. Doubles £77.50
West Freuchies Just outside Kirkton of Glenisla
T 01575 582716, W glenisla-westfreuchies.co.uk. A

comfortable bed and breakfast whose first-floor rooms
have views over the hills. There's also self-catering accom-
modation nearby in a converted mill. Approaching from
Alyth, a right-hand turn leads northeast to the B&B ( sign -
posted before you reach Kirkton of Glenisla). Doubles £70

2

Kirriemuir and around
The sandstone town of KIRRIEMUIR , known locally as Kirrie, is set on a hill six miles
northwest of Forfar on the cusp of glens Clova and Prosen. Despite the influx of
hunters up for the “season”, it's still a pretty special place, a haphazard confection of
narrow closes, twisting wynds and steep braes. The main cluster of streets have all the
appeal of an old film set, with their old-fashioned bars, tiled butcher's shop, tartan
outlets and haberdasheries somehow managing to avoid being contrived and quaint.

J.M. Barrie's birthplace
9 Brechin Rd • Mid-March till June Mon-Wed, Sat & Sun noon-5pm; July & Aug daily 11am-5pm; Sept-Oct Mon-Wed, Sat & Sun
noon-5pm • £6.50; NTS
Kirrie was the birthplace of J.M. Barrie . A local handloom-weaver's son, Barrie first
came to notice with his series of novels about “Thrums”, a village based on his home
town, in particular A Window in Thrums and his third novel, The Little Minister . he
story of Peter Pan, the little boy who never grew up, was penned by Barrie in 1904
- some say as a response to a strange upbringing dominated by the memory of his older
brother, who died as a child. Barrie's birthplace , a plain little whitewashed cottage, has
a series of small rooms decorated as they would have been during Barrie's childhood, as
well as displays about his life and works. The wash house outside was apparently the
model for the house built by the Lost Boys for Wendy in Never-Never Land. Despite
being offered a prestigious plot at London's Westminster Abbey, Barrie chose to be
buried in Kirrie, and the unassuming family grave can be seen in the town cemetery.

Camera obscura
In the old cricket pavilion above town just off West Hill Rd • Mid-March till June: Sat noon-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; July-Sept: Mon-Sat
noon-5pm, Sun 1-5pm • £3.50; NTS
One of the few camera obscuras still functioning in Scotland, this unexpected treasure was
donated to the town in 1930 by Barrie, and offers splendid views of Strathmore and the
glens. On a clear day it's possible to see as far as Ben Ledi, almost sixty miles to the west.

Gateway to the Glens Museum
32 High St • Tues-Sat 10am-5pm • Free • W angus.gov.uk
J.M. Barrie is Kirriemuir's most famous son, but another man born in the town attracts
a handful of rather different pilgrims. Bon Scott of the rock band AC/DC lived here
before emigrating to Australia; more about him can be found at Kirriemuir's Gateway
to the Glens Museum , in the old Town House on the main square. The oldest building
in Kirrie, it has seen service as a tollbooth, court, jail, post office, police station and
chemist; these days you can find two floors of interactive displays and exhibits on the
town and the Angus glens, including a scale model of Kirrie in 1604.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE KIRRIEMUIR AND AROUND

By bus The hourly #20 bus runs from Kirriemuir High St to Forfar and Dundee.