Argyll - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 120

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GEORGE ORWELL ON JURA
In April 1946, Eric Blair (better known by his pen name of George Orwell ), intending to
give himself “six months' quiet” in which to complete his latest novel, moved to a remote
farmhouse called Barnhill , at the northern end of Jura, which he had visited for the first
time the previous year. He appears to have relished the challenge of living in Barnhill,
fishing almost every night, shooting rabbits, laying lobster pots, and even attempting a
little farming. Along with his adopted 3-year-old son Richard, and later his sister Avril, he
clearly enjoyed his spartan existence. The topic Orwell was writing, under the working title
The Last Man in Europe , was to become 1984 (the title was arrived at by simply reversing
the last two digits of the year in which it was finished - 1948). During his time on Jura,
however, Orwell was suffering badly from tuberculosis, and eventually he was forced to
return to London, where he died in January 1950.
Barnhill, 23 miles north of Craighouse, is as remote today as it was in Orwell's day. The road
deteriorates rapidly beyond Lealt, where vehicles must be left, leaving pilgrims a four-mile walk
to the house itself. Alternatively, the Richardsons of Kinauachdrachd ( T 07899 912116) can
organize a taxi and guided walk, and also run a bunkhouse. Orwell wrote most of the topic in
the bedroom (top left window as you look at the house); the place is now a self-catering
cottage ( T 01786 850274). If you're keen on making the journey out to Barnhill, you might as
well combine it with a trip to the nearby Corryvreckan Whirlpool (see opposite), which lies
between Jura and Scarba, to the north. Orwell nearly drowned in the whirlpool during a
fishing trip in August 1947, along with his three companions (including Richard): the outboard
motor was washed away, and they had to row to a nearby island and wait for several hours
before being rescued by a passing fisherman.

ARRIVAL AND TOURS ISLE OF JURA

By ferry The Feolin ferry from Port Askaig will not run
if there's a strong northerly or southerly wind, so bring
your toothbrush if you're coming for a day-trip. Very
occasionally the Jura minibus ( T 01496 820314) meets the
car ferry from Port Askaig - phone ahead to check times.
Between April and September, there's also a passenger
ferry service ( T 07768 450000, W jurapassengerferry.com)
from Tayvallich, on the Argyll mainland, to Craighouse.

Destinations Port Askaig (Mon-Sat hourly, Sun 7 daily;
5min).
Boat tours If you're interested in taking a boat trip to
Scarba, Corryvreckan or the nearby Garvellach islands,
contact Sea.fari ( T 01852 300003, W seafari.co.uk),
based at Easdale, or Craignish Cruises ( T 07747 023038,
W craignishcruises.co.uk), in Ardfern.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
The Antlers 100m north of Jura Distillery T 01496
820123. Unlicensed bistro restaurant that serves up
burgers, sandwiches and salads for lunch, and beautifully
presented Jura lamb (£14.95), pork and salmon in the
evening. Tues-Sun noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm.
Jura Hotel Craighouse T 01496 820243 , W jurahotel
.co.uk. The island's one and only hotel is not much to look
at from the outside, but it's warm and friendly within,
and centre of the island's social scene. The hotel does the

usual bar meals, and has a shower block and laundry
facilities round the back for those who wish to camp in
the hotel gard ens. Camping free, showers £1. Bar daily
11am-11pm. £95
Sealladh na Mara Four miles north of Craighouse
T 01496 820349, W isleofjura.net. A modern croft house
with just two rooms, both of which have stunning views;
guests are also free t o a vail themselves of the adjoining
lounge/dining room. £76