Argyll - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 96

1 THE BEAVER TRIAL

In 2009, a colony of beavers from Norway were introduced into Knapdale Forest as part of a
five-year project by the Scottish Beaver Trial ( W scottishbeavertrial.org.uk). The first beavers
to be released into the wilds of Scotland for over four hundred years, their reintroduction met
with a rather mixed reaction, though their effect on the environment (and to a lesser degree
the local economy) has been, and continues to be, closely monitored by an independent
project team.
From the interpretation centre at Barnluasgan (four miles west of Cairnbaan), it's a
twenty-minute walk to Dubh Loch, where most of the beaver activity takes place. Here, there's
a viewing platform and another rough path that cuts through to Loch Coille Bharr, the two
lochs separated by an 18-metre-long dam that took the beavers around four to five months to
build - a quite remarkable feat of engineering. Either side of these two lochs, you'll also see
their lodges, large and impressive tangles of severed branches, wood and mud. The best time
to see these fascinating creatures is either at dawn or dusk, and although sightings are by no
means guaranteed, there is a strong possibility that you will witness some beaver activity. Take
along some binoculars, midge repellent and refreshments (you could be waiting a while), and
don't bring dogs. You can follow the trail yourself or, alternatively, join one of the free guided
tours that take place on Tuesday and Saturday evenings between June and September.

the remains of a small port where cattle used to be landed from Ireland. There's also a
fine view of the MacCormaig Islands , the largest of which, Eilean Mór (owned by the
Scottish National Party), was once a retreat of the seventh-century St Cormac.

Loch Sween
Six miles south of Achnamara on the eastern shores of Loch Sween is the “Key of
Knapdale”, the eleventh-century Castle Sween , the earliest stone castle in Scotland but
in ruins since 1647. The tranquility and beauty of the setting is spoilt by the nearby
caravan park, an eyesore which makes a visit pretty depressing. You're better off
continuing south to the thirteenth-century Kilmory Chapel , also in ruins but with a
new roof protecting the medieval grave-slabs and the well-preserved MacMillan's Cross,
an eight-foot fifteenth-century Celtic cross showing the Crucifixion on one side and a
hunting scene on the other.

Kilberry
The bulk of Knapdale is isolated and fairly impenetrable, but it's worth persevering
the fourteen miles of single-track road in order to reach Kilberry , where you can
camp at Port Bàn (see below), and enjoy the fantastic sunsets and views over Jura.
There's also a church worth viewing in Kilberry and a small collection of carved
medieval grave-slabs.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING KILBERRY

Kilberry Inn T 01880 770223, W kilberryinn.com.
You'll find some of the finest food for miles around at the
Kilberry , which punters flock to for its fantastically creative
seafood dishes like potted crab with fennel and pink
grapefruit, and Sound of Jura scallops seared with puy
lentils, pancetta and salsa verde (£19). April-Oct Tues-
Sun noon-2pm & 6.30-10pm.

Port Bàn T 01880 770224, W portban.com. With
fantastic views and sunsets over Jura, this secluded caravan
and camping site is a wonderful place to hide away for a
few nights. Brilliant facilities include a shop, café, playpark
and games field (with putting and crazy golf ), while the
nea rby beach is great for mucking about on. April-Oct.
£16 /pitch

ENTERTAINMENT
Crear A mile from Kilberry T 01880 770369, W crear
.co.uk. Look out for the concerts put on at Crear, a barn
that's been transformed into an artists' retreat, studio

and concert hall; it attracts an impressive roster of top
classical musicians.