Argyll - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 95

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Crinan Canal and to the south by West Loch Tarbert and consisting of three fingers of
land, separated by Loch Sween and Loch Caolisport. Knapdale is a little visited area,
which is surprising, as the ancient wooded landscape is among some of the most
beautiful, and unique, in the country. Not only that, but there is some spectacular
wildlife to observe, not least thanks to the recent reintroduction of beavers to the area
(see box, p.99).

Crinan Canal
In 1801 the nine-mile-long Crinan Canal opened, linking Loch Fyne, at Ardrishaig
south of Lochgilphead, with the Sound of Jura, thus cutting out the long and
treacherous journey around the Mull of Kintyre. John Rennie's original design,
although an impressive engineering feat, had numerous faults, and by 1816 Thomas
Telford was called in to take charge of the renovations. The canal runs parallel to the
sea for quite some way before cutting across the bottom of Mòine Mhór and hitting a
flight of locks either side of Cairnbaan (there are fifteen in total). The walk along the
towpath is utterly delightful, both picturesque and pleasantly unstrenuous, though you
could, of course, cycle too.

Crinan
There are usually one or two yachts passing through the locks, but the most relaxing
place from which to view the canal in action is Crinan , the pretty little fishing port at
the western end of the canal. Crinan's tiny harbour is, for the moment at least, still
home to a small fishing fleet; a quick burst up through Crinan Wood to the hill above
the village will give you a bird's-eye view of the sea lock and its setting.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING CRINAN CANAL

with an enormous scone with jam and butter (£3.85).
Easter-Oct: daily 10am-5pm.
Crinan Hotel Overlooking the harbour T 01546
830261, W crinanhotel.com. Occupying an enviable
position, this long-standing family-run hotel has twenty
artistically decorated rooms (indeed the hotel has its own
gallery), many with a private balcony from which to ta ke in
the loch views. They do, though, come at a price. £180
Seafood Bar Crinan Hotel, overlooking the harbour
T 01546 830261. Reward yourself after the long canalside
walk with some steamed mussels or an Arbroath smokie
(£13) washed down with a pint. This place enjoys one of
the most beautiful views in Scotland, especially at sunset,
when the myriad islets and the distinctive Paps of Jura
are reflected in the waters of the loch. Easter-Oct: daily
noon-12.30pm & 6-8.30pm.

CAIRNBAAN
Cairnbaan Hotel By lock number five T 01546
603668, W cairnbaan.com. This eighteenth-century
coaching inn built at the same time as the canal, which
it overlooks, accommodates twelve very well-designed
rooms; it's charmingly staffed too. The hotel's lively
restaurant-cum-bar makes for a useful pit stop, with lots
of passing trade from the canal. Although local seafood
is the main staple, there's much more besides, such as
tempura of haggis and a wicke dly tasty Argyll game pie
(£14). Daily 11am-10pm. £85

CRINAN
Coffee Shop By the lockside T 01546 830261. If you
only fancy a quick refresher, head down to the cheery
lockside café for a homemade sausage roll or a mug of tea

Knapdale Forest
South of the Crinan Canal, Knapdale Forest stretches virtually uninterrupted from
coast to coast, across hills sprinkled with tiny lochs. There are several waymarked walks
in the area to choose from: a circular, mile-long path will take you deep into the forest
just past Achnamara , a three-mile route around Loch Coille-Bharr , and a two-and-a-
half-mile path which runs along the canal and ascends Dunardry (702ft).

Tayvallich and the Chapel of Keills
Continuing down the western finger of Knapdale you come to Tayvallich , with its
attractive horseshoe bay, after which the peninsula splits again. The western arm leads
to the medieval Chapel of Keills , housing a display of late medieval carved stones, and