Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1
Scandinavian Smørrebrød
Laugavegur 22A
T
578
4888,
W
scandinavian.is; map p.57.
If you're curious
about Nordic cuisine, you'll find plenty of examples at this
modern brasserie cooking up specialities from the other
Scandinavian ountries: everything from Swedish
meatballs and Faroese lamb, plus Finnish vodka.
Mon-Thurs 11.30am-1pm, Fri & Sat 11.30am-11pm.
Vegamót
Vegamótastígur 4
T
511 3040,
W
vegamot
.is; map p.57.
A favourite hangout for Reykjavík's trendy
young things, who come here for the good-value burgers
(1690kr), salads (1790kr), Mexican specials (1790kr) and
excellent stir-fries (1890kr). Though more expensive, the
juicy steaks here are worth a blow-out (3490kr).
Mon-
Thurs & Sun 11.30am-1am, Fri & Sat 11.30am-4am.
Ì
Þrir Frakkar
Baldursgata 14
T
552 3939,
W
3frakkar
.com; map p.57.
Strange name (“Three Overcoats”) for this
backstreet French-style bistro with definite leanings towards
traditional Icelandic game: whale steak in pepper sauce
(4390kr), horse tenderloin with mushrooms,
plokkfiskur
(fish
and potato mash; 3190kr) and smoked guillemot. Mains
3190-4950kr.
Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm & Mon-Thurs
6-10pm, Fri-Sun 6-10.30pm.
DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Thanks to some cunning publicity from the Icelandic Tourist Board, Reykjavík is now deservedly known across Europe and
the US for its
nightlife
. Although the scene is actually no bigger than that of any small-sized town in most other countries,
what sets it apart is the northerly setting and location for all this revelry - during the light nights of summer, it's very
disorientating to have entered a nightclub in the wee small hours with the sun just about to set, only to emerge a couple
of hours later (and several thousand krónur poorer) into the blinding and unflattering daylight of the Icelandic morning.
Admission fees
to clubs are not too steep, generally 1000-
1500kr if there's live music, otherwise free. Things are liveliest
on Friday and Saturday nights, when most places swing until
4 or 5am; closing time the rest of the week is around 1am.
ESSENTIALS
Drinks
For take-away booze, the
vínbúð
alcohol store is at
Austurstræti 10a (Mon-Thurs & Sat 11am-6pm, Fri
11am-7pm). Drinking in bars and clubs, you'll need plenty
of cash for even a few drinks (a beer in a club costs upward
of 1200kr); and don't be tempted to leave your drink on the
bar while you go dancing, as the chances are it'll have been
drunk by the time you return.
Dress code
Don't expect to get into a club in style-
conscious Reykjavík if you turn up in full hiking gear - the
dress code is generally smart, and Icelandic men often don
a tie to go out clubbing. For foreigners things are more
relaxed, but you'll feel more comfortable if you're smart-
casual. At some places, jeans and sneakers aren't allowed.
Entry and opening hours
Very few people are out much
before 10pm, after which time crowds fill the streets and
queues develop outside the most popular joints. Partying
rarely winds up before early morning, and it's certainly not
uncommon to see hordes of youngsters staggering around
Lækjartorg at 4am shivering in the cold air dressed,
fashion-consciously, only in their latest T-shirts and jeans
- and often in much less. However you're kitted out, don't
be surprised if you're approached and chatted up as soon as
you've set foot through the door - Reykjavík is a small city
and new faces will always draw attention.
BARS AND CLUBS
Amsterdam
Hafnarstræti 5
T
551 3800; map p.57.
Still
going strong, this is one of Reykjavík's oldest bars, playing
lots of chart tracks and golden oldies. It's popular with a
young crowd who come here to drink (seriously) and to
dance (unsteadily).
Mon-Thurs & Sun noon-1am, Fri &
Sat noon-5am.
Bakkus
Laugavegur 22
T
770 1517; map p.57.
In
various guises, this spot has been one of Reykjavík's most
popular bars for years, and is a great place to start the
evening. Music policy is R&B and classic hits.
Mon-Thurs &
Sun noon-1am, Fri & Sat noon-4am.
Bjarni Fel
Austurstræti 20
T
561 2240; map p.57.
Rather
small and intimate sports bar (absolutely no music), full of
memorabilia and TV with screens angled in all directions; best
place to catch the latest football match over a cold beer.
Mon-Thurs & Sun noon-1am, Fri & Sat noon-4.30am.
Broadway
Ármúli 9
T
533 1100; map pp.54-55.
Inside
Park Inn Ísland
hotel, this is the country's biggest nightspot,
with room for over 2000 punters, and is popular with
WRECKED IN REYKJAVÍK
A rite of passage for all Icelandic teenagers, the
rúntur
(literally “round tour”) is a drunken
pub crawl that generally takes place between at least half a dozen bars and pubs, whatever
the weather. Intent on searching out the place with the hottest action, groups of revellers
(already well oiled after downing several generous vodkas before setting out) maraud the
city centre, particularly on Friday nights. If you come across them, expect to be engaged in
conversation or to see some rather unrestrained behaviour - but then nightlife in Iceland isn't
known for its subtleties.
