Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Cycling
SAFE TRAVEL
If you're planning to hike, cycle or drive
into Iceland's remoter corners, sign up
first with W safetravel.is . The website
provides full, clear instructions on how to
prepare for your trip, and allows you to
leave a travel plan and contact
information with them, which will be
followed up if you fail to report back at
the appointed time.
Call 112 in case of an emergency . For
those with smartphones, there's also a
free 112 Iceland app available which,
when activated, transmits your location
and nominated contact information to
the Rescue Services.
Bad roads, steep gradients and unpredictable
weather don't make Iceland an obvious choice for a
cycling holiday, but there are plenty of people who
come here each summer just to pedal around. If
you're properly equipped, it's a great way to see the
country close-up - you'll also save plenty of money
over other forms of transport.
You'll need a solid, 18- or 24-speed mountain
bike with chunky tyres. You can rent these from
various agents in Iceland for around 4000kr a day.
If you're bringing your own bike to Iceland by
plane, or getting it from one end of the country
to the other by air, you'll need to have the handle-
bars and pedals turned in, the front wheel
removed and strapped to the back, and the tyres
deflated.
There are bike shops in Reykjavík, Akureyri and a
couple of the larger towns, but otherwise you'll
have to provide all spares and carry out repairs
yourself, or find a garage to help. Remember that
there are plenty of areas, even on the Ringroad,
where assistance may be several days' walk away,
and that dust, sand, mud and water will place
abnormal strains on your bike. You'll definitely suffer
a few punctures , so bring a repair kit, spare tyre
and tubes, along with the relevant tools, spare
brake pads, spokes, chain links and cables.
Around the coast you shouldn't need excessively
warm clothing - a sweater and waterproof in
addition to your normal gear should be fine - but
make sure it's all quick-drying. If travelling through
the Interior, weatherproof jackets, leggings, gloves
and headwear, plus ample warm clothing, are
essential. Thick-soled neoprene surf boots will save
cutting your feet on rocks during river crossings.
It's not unfeasible to cover around 90km a day on
paved stretches of the Ringroad, but elsewhere the
same distance might take three days and condi-
tions may be so bad that you walk more than you
ride. Give yourself four weeks to circuit the Ringroad
at an easy pace - this would average around 50km
a day. Make sure you've worked out how far it is to
the next store before passing up the chance to buy
food , and don't get caught out by supermarkets'
short weekend hours (see p.45). Off-road cycling is
prohibited in order to protect the landscape, so
stick to the tracks.
If it all gets too much, put your bike on a bus for
3000kr. If there's space, bikes go in the luggage
compartment; otherwise they are tied to the roof or
back. Either way, protect your bike by wrapping and
padding it if possible.
moving forward, spinning wheels will quickly dig
the vehicle in, so take your foot off the accelerator
immediately. Hopefully you'll be able to reverse out
- otherwise, start digging. Reducing tyre pressure
to around 10psi increases traction on soft surfaces,
but you'll need to pump tyres up again once you're
back on harder surfaces.
Rivers are potentially very dangerous - many
people have drowned in their cars in the Interior.
They come in two types: spring-fed rivers have a
constant flow; while glacial rivers can fluctuate
considerably depending on the time of day and
prevailing weather conditions. These are at their
lowest during the early morning and after a dry spell
of weather; conversely, they can be much deeper in
the afternoon once the sun has melted the glacial
ice that feeds them, or when it's raining. Some rivers
are bridged but many are not; fords are marked
with a “V” on maps. You need to assess the depth
and speed of the river first to find the best crossing
point - never blindly follow other vehicle tracks -
and to wear a lifejacket and tie yourself to a lifeline
when entering the river to check its depth. If the
water is going to come more than halfway up the
wheels, slacken off the fan belt, block the engine's
air intake, and waterproof electrics before crossing.
Be sure to engage a low gear and four-wheel-drive
before entering the water at a slow, steady pace;
once in, don't stop (you'll either start sinking into the
riverbed or get swept away), or change gear (which
lets water into the clutch). If you stall mid-stream in
deep water, turn off the ignition immediately and
disconnect the battery, use a winch to pull the
vehicle out, and don't restart until you've ensured
that water hasn't entered the engine through the air
filter - which will destroy the engine.
 
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