Eastern and southeast Iceland - The Rough Guide to Iceland - page 296

SKAFTAFELLSHEIÐI PLATEAU CIRCUIT
There's a very rewarding circuit around the moors atop of the Skaftafellsheiði plateau, taking
around six hours to complete. The weather is very changeable - low cloud, rain and fog can
move in quickly - and you'll need Mál og mennings' 1:100,000 Skaftafell map , which has a
1:50,000 detail covering the Skaftafellsheiði area.
Beginning at Svartifoss, aim for Sjónarsker , a stony 310m ridge where the upper trail to
Morsárdalur diverges - it makes a good general orientation point, as you can see from the coast
right up to Vatnajökull from here. Heading due north the path weaves through knee-high birch
thickets, silent except for bird calls, towards Skerhóll 's steep front, and then climbs the gently
sloping rear of this platform. Next comes a short ascent up to Nyrðrihnaukur , a long grassy
crest from which you can spy downwards on Morsárdalur's picturesque spread of crumbly grey
cliffs, flat valley floor with intertwined streams, and encroaching glaciers.
By now you're about two hours from Svartifoss, right at the foot of Kristínatindar , a
scree-covered peak rising 1125m to a jagged set of pinnacles. One trail heads eastwards
around its south side, but you can also hike on unmarked trails up and over Kristínatindar
itself, starting from where the main path curves into a “bowl” between the two main peaks
- the ascent is nowhere near as hard as it looks, though tiring enough. You emerge onto an
icy saddle, the wind suddenly tearing into your face, with the main peak on your left
(di cult in very strong winds) and the minor summit to the right. On a good day, the views
are magnificent: the mountain is surrounded on three sides by ice, its wedge-like spine
splitting Vatnajökull's outflow into the two glaciers which run either side of it - eastern
Skaftafellsjökull is closer, a broad, white ribbon, crinkled and ribbed by the vast pressures
squeezing it forward. The trail heads down towards it - you have to cast around to find the
steep, indistinct track - landing you at Gláma , at the top of the sheer-sided valley filled by
Skaftafellsjökull, where the trail meets the marked track around Kristínatindar. From here,
you simply follow the stony cliff edge for an hour or so south to Sjónarnípa , a vantage
above the glacier's front, where the path divides to either continue along the edge back to
the campsite via birch scrub at Austurbrekka , or crosses southwest over the moor to
Svartifoss.

7

geology and natural history via maps, models and
information boards; a film show of the 1996 Grímsvötn
eruption and ensuing flood (see p.301); and wardens on
hand for current hiking info. The shop sells maps and
souvenirs, there's a café serving the worst coffee in Iceland,
and internet (500kr per 20min).
Services The nearest services are 5km east along the
Ringroad from Skaftafell at Freysnes, which is simply a fuel

station with attached mini-mart.
Guides Mountain Guides ( W mountainguides.is) and
Glacier Guides ( W glacierguides.is) have offices next to
the Visitor Centre and offer introductory glacier walks
(2hr; 6500kr), introductory ice climbs (4hr; 13,900kr)
and hard-core ascents of Hvannadalshnúkur (15hr;
23,900kr; see p.298).

ACCOMMODATION

Bölti T 478 1626, E [e-mail]. Crowded but tidy six-
bunk cabins (sleeping-bag only) with shared bathrooms
perched on Skaftafellsheiði's upper front; the separate turf-
roofed kitchen is a tiny wooden hut dug into the bank with
long views seawards. It's popular, so book early. To get
there, take the ro ad to th e top of Skaftafellsheiði, turn left
and you're there. 3800kr
Campsite T 470 8300. Close to the Visitor Centre, with
toilets, showers, laundry and space on a grassy flat at the
foot of the fells for 400 tents, but no shelter sheds or
retreat from the weather. You pay at the Visitor Centre.
1200kr
Fosshótel

W fosshotel.is. Ordinary modern hotel in the middle of
nowhere, 5km east from Skaftafell along the Ringroad at
the no-horse hamlet of Freysnes; twenty of their
unremarkable, floral-patterned en suite rooms have glacier
views. Given the he fty rate, it's a relief to know that
breakfast is included. 31,600kr
Svínafell T 478 1765, W svinafell.com. Historic farm at
the foot of Öræfajökull which featured in Njál's Saga, with a
spacious campsite, rather basic cabins where you pay per
bed, and fantastic glacier scenery. Amenities include
showers, toilets, kitchen and an indo or dinin g area. It's 7km
east alo ng the Ringroad. Camping 1150kr ; sleeping bag
3700kr Skaftafell Freysnes T 478 1945,