Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EXPLORING THE WEST COAST
The Ringroad (Route 1) cuts right through the region to Brú, covered year-round by
Reykjavík-Akureyri
buses
via Borgarnes. From Borgarnes, Route 54 and more year-round buses
head northwest to Snæfellsnes; while for the Búðardalur area you need to turn north off the
Ringroad up Route 60 at Bifröst, a route served by buses (all year) heading for Hólmavík in the
West Fjords, where connections are available for Ísafjörður (summer only).
In some ways it's worth seeing the west coast as a stepping stone to the
West Fjords
:
another point of entry is the regular ferry from Stykkishólmur on Snæfellsnes to Brjánslækur,
from where there are bus connections to other West Fjord locations; the Búðardalur bus presses
on to Hólmavík in the West Fjords, though you can only travel beyond this in your own vehicle.
peninsula's southern coast it's possible to take a snowmobile
up onto Snæfellsjökull for
some of the most exhilarating driving - and vistas - you'll ever experience. For splendid
isolation, nearby
Búðir
can't be beaten, its wide sandy bay home only to an unusually
charismatic hotel complete with creaking floorboards and ocean views. Occupying a
sheltered spot in the neck of land which links the West Fjords with the rest of the
country,
Laugar
in Sælingsdalur has some hot springs and a few cultural diversions, and
makes a good place to break the long journey from Reykjavík to the West Fjords.
What the west coast may lack in scenic splendour, it makes up for in historical and
cultural significance - landscapes here are steeped in the drama of the sagas. Close to
Búðardalur
, to the north of Snæfellsnes along Route 586, Haukadalur valley was the
starting point for
Viking
expansion westwards, which took explorers first to Greenland
and later to the shores of North America as heroically recounted in the
Saga of Eirík the
Red
. He and his wife lived at
Eiríksstaðir
and, having been outlawed from Iceland,
together they pioneered the settlement of Greenland. It's also thought that
Leifur
Eiríksson
, the first European to set foot in North America, was born on a farm that has
now been expertly reconstructed on the original site. More saga history can be found in
Laxárdalur valley, northeast of Búðardalur, where characters from the
Laxdæla Saga
lived out their feud-torn lives.
3
Hvalfjörður
Once beyond Reykjavík and its adjacent overspill town, Mosfellsbær, the Ringroad
weaves northwards around the towering form of Mount Esja to
Hvalfjörður
(whale
fjord), the biggest in southwest Iceland, named after the large number of whales seen
here by the original settlers. During World War II, the fjord's deep anchorages made it
one of the most important bases in the North Atlantic, when British and American
naval vessels were stationed here, providing a port and safe haven for supply ships
travelling between Europe and North America. As the fjord kinks some 30km inland,
however, it was something of an obstacle to road travel, until the opening of an
impressive 6km submarine
tunnel
in 1998. It was completed despite concerns from the
people of Akranes that the shorter distance to the capital (49km through the tunnel
compared with a massive 108km round the fjord) would kill off their local shops and
services - fortunately their fears have proved unfounded. Twenty-four-hour
toll booths
are in place at both ends charging 1000kr per car, which is well worth the expense to
save a tedious detour.
Akranes
Just beyond the exit from the Hvalfjörður tunnel, Route 51 strikes off west from the
Ringroad for
AKRANES
, the west coast's biggest town with a population of 6500. Fishing
