Southwestern Iceland - The Rough Guide to Iceland - page 120

of hikes to attempt in the area - the most ambitious of which is the nine-hour
return trip up Tindafjall to its ice cap, Tindfjallajökull (1462m), via a series of
mountain huts.

ACCOMMODATION FLJÓTSHLÍÐ

Fljótsdalur Youth Hostel T 487 8498, W hostel.is.
Right at the end of the all-vehicle road, this simple turf-
roofed hostel comprises two small wooden buildings; good
days bring stunning views of Eyjafjallajökull, which rises up

the valley to the east. Accommodation is in dorms and all
facilities are shared, and the h ostel ta kes cash only. The
nearest shops are in Hvolsvöllur. 3200kr

2

Bergþórshvoll
South of Hvollsvöllur, follow Route 255 coastwards for 20km of the Ringroad and
across the flat, waterlogged countryside to Bergþórshvoll , where Njál's homestead sat a
thousand years ago. Today, a modern farmhouse occupies the low crest 1km from the
sea, and there's no visible trace of the original hall, which was besieged by Flósi and
his hundred-strong Burners in the autumn of 1011. The two sides (Njál's party
consisting of about thirty of his family and servants) met face to face in the open, but,
urged by the old man, the defenders retreated into the house, and Flósi - certain that
Njál's sons would kill him if they escaped - ordered the building to be set alight. After
women, children and servants were allowed to leave, Njál, his wife and sons burned to
death; only “lucky” Kári managed to break out. In support of the story, charred
remains found here during twentieth-century excavations have been carbon-dated to
the saga period.

Seljalandsfoss
Back on the Ringroad heading east from Hvolsvöllur - and passing the turning to the
Westman Islands' ferry port - it's around 20km to where Route 249 to Þórsmörk heads
inland around the platform of Eyjafjallajökull's western foothills. Just 200m along is
Seljalandsfoss , a narrow but powerful waterfall that drops 60m off the undercut fellside
into a shallow pool. Paths run behind the curtain - you'll get soaked, but the noise of
the falls is impressively magnified - and the lighting is especially atmospheric in the
evening, when the low sun makes the waterfall glow gold. There are a couple of smaller
falls (one of which is almost enclosed by the cliff-face) up towards the adjacent
campsite, the boggy meadow in between thick with a summer crop of cotton grass,
kingcups and angelica.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE SELJALANDSFOSS

By Bus Most buses along the Ringroad and all Þórsmörk
services stop for a while at Seljalandsfoss.
Destinations Hella (4 daily; 45min); Hveragerði
(4 daily; 1hr 20min); Hvolsvöllur (4 daily, 35min);

Kirkjubæjarklaustur (1 daily; 3hr); Reykjavík (4 daily; 1hr
55min); Selfoss (4 daily; 1hr); Skaftafell (1 daily; 5hr
45min); Skógar (2 daily; 50min); Vík (1 daily; 2hr 25min);
Þórsmörk (2 daily; 1hr 25min).

ACCOMMODATION

Ì Hamragarðar Campsite T 487 8920. Wonderful
setting 500m up the road from the falls and facing west
over the Mjarkafljot valley, with acres of thick grass to
pitch a tent between the Þórsmörk road and cliff base.
There's a modern indoor kitchen area (with cookers and
sinks), sh owers, toilets and laundry, plus a small on-site
café-bar. 1000kr
Stóra Mörk III

Historic dairy farm which featured in Njál's Saga , with
views up the valley towards Þórsmörk; it's 7km up the
Þórsmörk road from Seljalandsfoss, as far as you can take
a normal vehicle. They offer made-up beds or sleeping-
bag accommodation in a fairly old guesthouse, and can
provide meals by arrangement - though a kitche n and
dining area i s at y our disposal. Dorms 5600kr ; with
sleeping bag 3900k T 487 8903, E [e-mail].