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on foot into the wilderness of the Hornstrandir Peninsula . Beautifully located on the
north coast, Akureyri is rightfully known as the capital of the north and functions as
Iceland's second city. With a string of bars and restaurants, it can make a refreshing
change from the small villages hereabouts. From here it's easy to reach the island of
Grímsey , the only part of Icelandic territory actually within the Arctic Circle ; and the
country's biggest tourist attraction outside the capital, Lake Mývatn . The lake is a
favourite nesting place for many species of duck and other waterfowl and is
surrounded by an electrifying proliferation of volcanic activity. Nearby Húsavík is one
of the best places in the country to organize summer whale-watching cruises, while
just inland, the wilds of Jökulsárgljúfur National Park offer superlative hiking along
deep river gorges to the spectacular Dettifoss , Europe's most powerful waterfall. South
of here, Höfn is a good base from which to visit Europe's biggest glacier, the mighty
Vatnajökull, either on a skidoo trip or on foot through Skaftafell National Park,
whilst the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon offers the surreal chance to cruise alongside
floating icebergs.
TO WHALE OR NOT TO WHALE
The Icelandic government's decision to resume commercial whaling in late 2006 drove a
wedge through Icelandic public opinion. Most of the population views whaling as a virtual
birthright and is only too keen to turn a nationalistic blind eye to international protest, but it is
also true that the nation's burgeoning tourism industry has led to a decline in its near-total
dependence on the fishing industry. Consequently, promoters of tourism lost no time in
pointing out that foreigners have flocked to Iceland in recent years to watch whales in their
natural habitat, not to see them unceremoniously sliced up for the dinner table - and despite
a seeming nonchalance, Icelanders are painfully aware that their tiny country on the very edge
of Europe can ill afford any kind of international boycott.
ABOVE WHALING SHIPS, REYKJAVÍK OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP FISHERMAN IN TRADITIONAL SEAL SKIN SUIT;
REPLICA VIKING LONGSHIP; SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR
 
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