Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Route 427
Newly surfaced
Route 427
heads eastwards from Grindavík along the Reykjanes
Peninsula's south coast to Þorlákshöfn, a 60km run over a succession of ancient lava
flows squashed between coastal ranges and the sea. In good weather there's a few places
to get out and explore along the way, though the land here has, disturbingly, been
rising over the last few years, indicating future volcanic activity.
Selatangar
About 12km from Grindavík, a 1.5km gravel road south of Route 427 ends at a
parking area beside a distinctive lavafield
above the sea. An indistinct
walking track
heads east, defined by rocks and driftwood, bringing you (in about 10min) to the
remains of
Selatangar
, a seasonal fishing settlement last used in the 1880s and
comprising lava-block dwellings perched above the sea, ranging from buildings the
size and shape of a hollow cairn through to large, walled-in caves. There's far more
here than you realize at first; poke around and you'll soon find a score or more sites,
some almost completely intact, others just foundations. No roofs have survived;
these may well have been constructed from driftwood (plenty washes up here) or
weatherproofed cloth. With near constant wind howling in from the south, rapidly
bringing in and dispersing fog with little warning, Selatangar can be quite spooky
- some say that there's even a resident ghost named
Tanga-Tómas
- and it doesn't
take much imagination to conjure up what life was like here when the place was
last occupied.
2
Krýsuvíkurberg
Some 22km from Grindavík, a turnoff from Route 427 leads seawards to a rough
parking area, from where you have to walk a final 3km to
Krýsuvíkurberg
, a long,
curved cliff topped by a crust of green grass (an unusual sight for this part of the
coast). This is packed solid all summer long with nesting
birds
: the cliffs are
kittiwake Grand Central, and the turf is riddled with puffin burrows. The east end
is topped by a triangulation point, with wonderful seascapes from the red scoria
headland behind.
Strandarkirkja
Of towards the eastern end of Route 427, a short turnoff leads to the coastal hamlet of
STRANDARKIRKJA
. It's named after the pretty, pale-blue
church
here built around 1900
by thankful sailors who had made it ashore after their ship was wrecked in a storm;
climb the sea wall opposite and there's a good chance of spotting seals playing in the
tidal lagoons offshore. The excellent free campsite nearby is another draw.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
STRANDARKIRKJA
Ì
Campsite
Free site run by a farmer who has installed
showers, toilets, sinks and picnic tables, this gently sloping
campsite offers perfect pitches on a calm summer night. A
tiny store opposite (10am-10pm through the summer)
sells basic supplies. There's a donation box if you want to
contribute towards the site's upkeep.
T-Bær Café
T
483 3150.
Given that Strandarkirkja
comprises only about four buildings, it's incredible that
one of them is this pleasant café serving home-made
bread and cakes.
Mon-Wed & Fri-Sun 8am-10pm,
Thurs 2-10pm.
Þorlákshöfn
At the eastern end of Route 427,
ÞORLÁKSHÖFN
is a service town settled by those
fleeing the 1973 eruption on Heimay (see p.134). The only reason to visit would be to
catch the irregular winter ferries to the Westman Islands. From here, it's a short run
east to Eyrarbakki or Hveragerði, or west to Strandarkirkja.
