Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
On its completion in 1820, the
Regent's Canal
delineated the city's northern periphery,
passing along the north side of one of London's finest parks,
Regent's Park
, framed by
Nash-designed architecture and home to London Zoo. The canal forces its way into
most Londoners' consciousness only at
Camden
, a rakish place even today, whose
market is one of the city's big attractions - a warren of stalls selling funky wares, street
fashion, books and music.
Few visitors to the capital head out to neighbouring
Islington
, which has its own
flourishing antiques trade, and
Dalston
and
Hackney
, further east, with their ethnically
diverse population, thus missing out on some of north London's defining areas. The
real highlights, though, for visitors and residents alike, are
Hampstead
and
Highgate
,
elegant, largely eighteenth-century developments, which still reflect their village
origins. They have the added advantage of proximity to one of London's wildest patches
of greenery,
Hampstead Heath
, where you can enjoy stupendous views, kite flying and
outdoor bathing, as well as high art at the Neoclassical mansion of
Kenwood House
.
A few sights in more far-flung suburbs are also worth seeking out: the nineteenth-
century utopia of
Hampstead Garden Suburb
; the Orthodox Jewish suburb of
Golders
Green
; the
RAF Museum
at Hendon; and the spectacular
Hindu temple
in Neasden.
Little Venice
!
Warwick Avenue
The Regent's Canal starts out from the west in the triangular leafy basin known as
Little Venice
, a nickname coined by one-time resident and poet Robert Browning. The
title may be far-fetched, but the willow-tree Browning's Island is one of the prettiest
spots on the canal, and the houseboats and barges moored hereabouts are brightly
painted and strewn with tubs of flowers. While you're here, try and catch a marionette
performance on the
Puppet Theatre Barge
(see p.441), moored on the Blomfield Road
side of the basin, a unique and unforgettable experience; performances take place
every weekend at 3pm, and daily throughout the school holidays (except Aug & Sept).
You can also catch a
canal boat
to Camden (see p.287), or walk south to the
Paddington Basin (see p.277).
20
REGENT'S CANAL
The
Regent's Canal
, completed in 1820, was constructed as part of a direct link from
Birmingham to the newly built London Docks in the East End. After an initial period of heavy
usage it was overtaken by the railway, and never really paid its way as its investors had hoped.
By some miracle, however, it survived, and its nine miles, 42 bridges, twelve locks and two
tunnels stand as a reminder of another age. The lock-less stretch of the canal
between Little
Venice and Camden Town
is the busiest, most attractive section, tunnelling through to
Lisson Grove, skirting Regent's Park, offering views of London Zoo and passing straight
through the heart of Camden Market. You can walk, jog or cycle along the towpath, but this
section of the canal is also served by scheduled narrowboats.
Three companies run daily
boat services
between Camden and Little Venice, passing
through the Maida Hill tunnel. Whichever you choose, you can board at either end;
tickets
cost around £10 return, and journey time is fifty minutes one-way.
Jenny Wren
T
020 7485 4433,
W
walkersquay
.com.
The narrowboat
Jenny Wren
starts off at Camden,
goes through a canal lock (the only company to do so)
and heads for Little Venice (with a live commentary).
March Sat & Sun only; April-Oct daily.
Jason's Trip
off three or four times a day from Little Venice to
Camden. Cash only, no commentary.
April-early
Nov daily.
London Waterbus Company
T
020 7482 2550,
W
londonwaterbus.com.
Services leave from both
Camden and Little Venice, and call in at London Zoo
en route.
April-Sept daily; Oct Thurs-Sun only;
Nov-March Sat & Sun only, weather permitting.
jasons.co.uk.
This one hundred-year-old traditional narrow boat
has been running trips since 1951; services set
020 7286 3428,
T
W
