Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
'CHEESEBURGER IN PARADISE': CABBAGE KEY INN
As all Parrotheads know, Jimmy Buffett's famous song 'Cheeseburger in Paradise' was al-
$100-150, cottages $180-405; 7:30-9am, 11:30am-3pm & 6-8:30pm). Truth be told, the burger
is only average, and it wouldn't be worth writing a song about if it weren't served on this
100-acre, mangrove-fringed key in the Gulf of Mexico, which somehow makes everything
more special. Built atop a Calusa shell mound, and originally the 1938 home of writer
Mary Roberts Rinehart, the inn has the romantic air of a secluded semitropical port for
global wayfarers - one that receives ferry loads of tourists every lunchtime. The bar is
certainly a sight: the walls are matted and spongy with perhaps $80,000 in signed $1
bills, including framed bills from ex-president Jimmy Carter and, of course, Mr Buffett
himself. Bills flutter to the floor daily, which the inn collects, annually donating $10,000 to
charity.
Staying in one of the inn's six rooms or seven cottages is definitely the best experience.
All are Old Florida atmospheric with pretty touches (Rinehart and Dollhouse are favor-
ites), but they aren't resort-plush: no TVs, no pool and wi-fi only in the restaurant. But
you're not exactly marooned: the inn serves powerful cocktails and full dinner nightly
(from $16 to $29, and they'll cook your catch), but make reservations. Most people visit
for lunch (from $9 to $11); we'd recommend the blackened mahimahi, but we know what
you'll probably order.
To get here,
Tropic Star
has ferries that include lunch at Cabbage Key, or you can rent
your own boat or book a private water taxi on Pine Island or Captiva Island.
Getting There & Away
To reach Gasparilla Island, head southwest of Hwy 41 on Hwy 776, which merges with
Gasparilla Rd. The toll over the causeway costs $6.
Cayo Costa Island
As slim as a supermodel and just as lovely, Cayo Costa Island is almost entirely preserved
www.floridastateparks.org/cayocosta
; admission $2; 8am-sunset)
. While its pale, ash-colored
sand may not be as fine as other beaches, its idyllic solitude and bathtub-warm azure wa-
ters are without peer. Bring a snorkel mask to help scour sandbars for shells and huge
