Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
DRY TORTUGAS NATIONAL PARK
After all those keys, connected by all that convenient road, the nicest islands in the ar-
chipelago require a little extra effort. Ponce de León named them Las Tortugas (The
Turtles) for the sea turtles that roamed here. A lack of freshwater led sailors to add a 'dry.'
$5/free) are a national park under the control of the National Park Service and are access-
ible by boat or plane.
Originally the Tortugas were the US's naval perch into the Gulf of Mexico. But by the
Civil War,
Fort Jefferson
, the main structure on the islands, had become a prison for
Union deserters and at least four people, among them Dr Samuel Mudd, who had been
arrested for complicity in the assassination of Abraham Lincoln. Hence, a new nickname:
Devil's Island. The name was prophetic; in 1867 a yellow-fever outbreak killed 38 people,
and after an 1873 hurricane the fort was abandoned. It reopened in 1886 as a quarantine
station for smallpox and cholera victims, was declared a national monument in 1935 by
President Franklin D Roosevelt, and was upped to national park status in 1992 by George
Bush Sr.
The park is open for day trips and overnight camping, which provides a rare phenomen-
on: a quiet Florida beach. Garden Key has 13 campsites ($3 per person, per night), which
are given out on a first-come, first-served basis. Reserve early by calling the National Park
Service. There are toilets, but no freshwater showers or drinking water; bring everything
you'll need. The sparkling waters offer excellent snorkeling and diving opportunities. A
visitor center
is located within fascinating Fort Jefferson.
If you're hungry, watch for Cuban American fishing boats trolling the waters. They'll
happily trade for lobster, crab and shrimp; you'll have the most leverage trading bever-
ages. Just paddle up and bargain for your supper. In March and April, there is stupendous
bird-watching, including aerial fighting. Star-gazing is mind-blowing any time of the year.
GETTING THERE
If you have your own boat, the Dry Tortugas are covered under National Ocean Survey
www.drytortugas.com/
; Historic Seaport) operates a fast ferry between Garden Key and the
Historic Seaport (at the northern end of Margaret St). Round-trip fares cost $165/120