Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
litteredwithbrothelsandbars,andfrequentedbytheyoungPicasso,whosefamilymovedin-
totheareain1895.Itstilllooksthepart-anarrowthoroughfarelinedwithdarkoverhanging
buildings - but the funky cafés, streetwear shops and boutiques tell the story of its creeping
gentrification. The locals aren't overly enamoured of the influx of bar-crawling fun-seekers
- banners and notices along the length of this and neighbouring streets plead with visitors to
keep the noise down.
La Mercè
Drassanes
In the eighteenth century, the harbourside neighbourhood known as
La Mercè
was home to
the nobles and merchants enriched by Barcelona's maritime trade. Most took the opportun-
ity to move north to the more fashionable Eixample later in the nineteenth century, and the
streets of La Mercè took on an earthier hue. Since then, c/de la Mercè and the surrounding
streets (particularly Ample, d'en Gignas and Regomir) have been home to a series of old-
style
taverns
known as
tascas
or
bodegas
- a glass of wine from the barrel in
Bodega la
Plata
, or a similar joint, is one of the old town's more authentic experiences.
Església de la Mercè
Pl. de la Mercè • 10am-1pm & 6-8pm • Drassanes
The eighteenth-century
Església de la Mercè
is the focus of the city's biggest annual celeb-
ration, the Festes de la Mercè every September, dedicated to the co-patroness of Barcelona,
the Virgin of Mercè, whose image is paraded from here. It's an excuse for a week of intense
merrymaking, culminating in spectacular fireworks along the seafront. The church itself was
burned out in 1936, but the gilt side-chapels, stained-glass medallions and apse murals have
been authentically restored, while the statue of Virgin and Child sits behind glass above the
altar - a staircase allows you a closer look.
