Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The harmonious enclosed square of
Plaça del Rei
, behind the cathedral apse, was once the
courtyard of the palace of the counts of Barcelona, later the residence of the count-kings
of Aragón. The palace buildings themselves are steeped in history, and include the romant-
ic Renaissance Torre del Rei Martí, the main hall, known as the Saló del Tinell, and the
fourteenth-century
SantaAgatachapel
-there'snopublicaccesstothetower,thoughthere's
a fine view of it from the square, while the interiors of both hall and chapel can usually be
seen during a visit to the
Museu d'Història de Barcelona
. The square itself, meanwhile, was
the scene of one of Barcelona's greatest historic set-pieces, since it was here that Ferdinand
and Isabella received Christopher Columbus on his triumphant return from his famous voy-
age of 1492. With the old-town streets packed, Columbus advanced in procession with the
monarchstothepalace,wherehepresentedthequeenwithbootyfromthetrip-exoticbirds,
sweet potatoes and six Indians (actually Haitians), taken on board during Columbus's return.
CORPUS CHRISTI AND THE DANCING EGG
One of the biggest religious festivals of the year in Barcelona is that of
Corpus Christi
(lateMay/earlyJune),celebratedwiththedancingofthe
sardana
,paradesof
gegants
(fest-
ival giants) and a big procession from the cathedral. Unique to Corpus Christi is the
l'ou
com balla
, the
dancing egg
, which bubbles atop fountain water-jets across the old town.
Recordsof
l'oucomballa
inBarcelonadatebacktotheseventeenthcentury,thoughitsori-
gins are obscure; nonetheless, it's possible to see that an egg (ie, a hollowed-out, weighted
eggshell) gaily dancing on spurts of water represents not only the Eucharist but rebirth, re-
newal and even a celebration of spring. The city council publishes an annual programme
fortheFestadelCorpuswhichshowswhereyoucanseethisoddityforyourself-mostold-
town courtyard fountains put on a show, including those of La Seu and the Museu Marès.
Museu d'Història de Barcelona (MUHBA)
Pl. del Rei, entrance on c/del Veguer • Tues-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am-8pm, hols 10am-2pm • €7, includes
entry to other MUHBA sites, Sun after 3pm free; sometimes an extra charge for special exhibitions held in the
Saló del Tinell • 932 562 100,
www.museuhistoria.bcn.cat
• Jaume I
The
Museu d'Història de Barcelona
(Barcelona History Museum) comprises half a dozen
sites across the city, though its principal hub is what's known as the “Conjunt Monumental”
(or monumental ensemble) at Plaça del Rei, whose crucial draw is its underground archeolo-
gical section - nothing less than the extensive remains of the Roman city of Barcino. Des-
cending in the lift (the floor indicator shows “12 BC”), you are deposited onto walkways
running through excavations that extend for 4000 square metres, stretching under the sur-
rounding streets as far as the cathedral. The remains date from the first century BC to the
sixth century AD and reflect the transition from Roman to Visigothic rule - at the end of the
sixth century, a church was erected on top of the old Roman salt-fish factory, the foundations
