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mussels and other platters piled high on the bar. Meanwhile, the fryers in the kitchen work
overtime, turning out crisp baby squid, fried shrimp and little green peppers scattered with
rock-salt. Take your haul to a tile-topped cane table, or outside onto the tiny street-corner
patio. The recently opened second location at no. 9 (daily noon-midnight) also has a patio
and serves the same menu. Dishes up to €10. Tues-Sat 9am-11.30pm.
Vaso de Oro c/de Balboa 6, Barceloneta 933 193 098, vasodeoro.com ; Barceloneta;
map . If you can get in this corridor of a bar you're doing well (Sun lunch is particularly
busy), and there's no menu, but standard bites include patatasbravas , fried sausage and tuna
salad, with fancier shellfish dishes and meat grills available too (most tapas €4-15). Unusu-
ally, they also brew their own beer, which comes in tall schooners, either light or dark. Daily
9am-midnight.
IT TAKES TWO
You want a seafood paella or an arròs negre (black rice, with squid ink), or maybe a gar-
licky fideuà (noodleswithseafood).Ofcourseyoudo.Problemis,you'reonyourownand
virtually every restaurant that offers these classic Barcelona dishes does so for a minimum
of two people (often you don't find out until you examine the menu small print). Solu-
tion?Askthewaiterupfront,assometimesthekitchenwillobligesinglediners,orlookfor
the dishes on a menú del dia (especially on Thursdays, traditionally rice day), when there
should be no minimum. Probably best not to grab a stranger off the street to share a paella,
however desperate you are.
RESTAURANTS
Can Majo c/de l'Almirall Aixada 23, Barceloneta 932 215 455, canmajo.es ; Bar-
celoneta; map . Thisticksalltheboxesforaqualityseasidemeal,thanksnotleasttothebonus
ofalovelysummer terrassa bythebeachpromenade,whereyoucantuckintowonderfulrice
dishes, fideuà (noodles with seafood), suquet (fish stew) or grilled fish. The menu changes
dailyaccordingtowhat'sofftheboat;expecttospend€40-50ahead(andmakeareservation
if you want an outside table at the weekend). Tues-Sat 1-4pm & 8-11.30pm, Sun 1-4pm.
Can Maño c/del Baluard 12, Barceloneta 933 193 082; Barceloneta; map . This old-
fashioned diner is packed with noisy locals around formica tables. Basically, your choice is
fried or grilled fish, such as sardines, mullet or calamari, supplemented by a few daily sea-
food specials and basic meat dishes. Expect rough house wine and absolutely no frills, but
it's an authentic experience, which is likely to cost you less than €15 a head. Mon 8-11pm,
Tues-Fri 8-11am, 12.15-4pm & 8-11pm, Sat 8-11am & 12.15-4pm; closed Aug.
Can Solé c/de Sant Carles 4, Barceloneta 932 215 012, restaurantcansole.com ; Bar-
celoneta; map . Foundedin1903,itwashere-it'sclaimed-thattheclassic sarsuela (Catalan
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