Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE CUP THAT CHEERS
Coffee
in Barcelona is invariably espresso - a
café sol
(
café solo
) or simply
un café
. For
decaff (
descafeinat
,
descafeinado
), make sure you ask for it
de màquina
(“from the ma-
chine”)toavoidaninstantsachet.Aslightlyweakerlargeblackcoffeeisa
caféamericano
.
A
tallat
(
cortado
)islikea
macchiato
,ieasmallstrongblackcoffeewithadashofsteamed
milk; a larger cup with more hot milk is a
café amb llet
(
café con leche
). Chuck brandy,
cognac or whisky into a black coffee and it's a
cigaló
(
carajillo
).
Tea
comes without milk unless you ask for it, and is often just a teabag in a cup of hot
water. If you do ask for milk, chances are it'll be hot and UHT. Better to try an infusion,
like mint (
menta
), camomile (
camomila
) and lime (
tila
).
TAPAS BARS
Dos Palillos
c/d'Elisabets 9 933 040 513,
dospalillos.com
;
Catalunya;
map
.
Flag-
waver for Asian fusion tapas is this hipster hangout, part of the
Casa Camper
,
which offers
à la carte dim sum in the front galley bar (steamed dumplings to grilled oysters and stir-fried
prawns, mostly €5-7) and a back-room, counter-style Asian bar where tasting menus (€60,
€70and€85)wadetheirwaythroughthehighlights.Thefrontbarespeciallyisaplayfultake
on traditional tapas bars (cushions on upturned beer-crates, dusty liqueur bottles and steamer
baskets); there are no reservations taken for this, though you do have to book for the Asian
bar.
Tues & Wed 7.30-11.30pm, Thurs-Sat 1.30-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm; closed 2 weeks
in Dec/Jan & 3 weeks in Aug.
verysmall) place forsuperiortapasandfinewines,runbylocal SlowFoodchampion Alfons
Bach.Allthemeatisorganic,theregionalcheesesarewellchosen,andmarket-freshingredi-
ents go to make up things like daily pasta dishes, a platter of grilled vegetables or a simple
serving of lamb cutlets (most dishes €6-22). Finish with chocolate truffles or home-made ice
cream. There are only three or four tables, or you can perch at the bar.
Mon, Wed-Fri & Sun
1-4pm & 8pm-midnight, Sat 8pm-midnight; closed 2 weeks in Jan.
place (with bar at the front and restaurant tables at the back) offers up a chalkboard menu of
innovative organic dishes that are either vegetarian or vegan. Small and not-so-small dishes
roll out of the open kitchen - think Catalan mushroom croquettes, gnocchi with beetroot and
hazelnuts or grilled vegetables with goat cheese and rosemary, all in the range €7-22. The
Catalan wines and cheeses are a high point too.
Tues-Sun 8pm-midnight.
RESTAURANTS.
Bar Ra
c/del Carme 31 615 959 872,
ratown.com
; Liceu;
map
.
A hip little corner
behind the Boqueria market, with a groove-ridden music policy and a funky feel. “It's not a