Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE CUP THAT CHEERS
Coffee in Barcelona is invariably espresso - a café sol ( café solo ) or simply un café . For
decaff ( descafeinat , descafeinado ), make sure you ask for it de màquina (“from the ma-
chine”)toavoidaninstantsachet.Aslightlyweakerlargeblackcoffeeisa caféamericano .
A tallat ( cortado )islikea macchiato ,ieasmallstrongblackcoffeewithadashofsteamed
milk; a larger cup with more hot milk is a café amb llet ( café con leche ). Chuck brandy,
cognac or whisky into a black coffee and it's a cigaló ( carajillo ).
Tea comes without milk unless you ask for it, and is often just a teabag in a cup of hot
water. If you do ask for milk, chances are it'll be hot and UHT. Better to try an infusion,
like mint ( menta ), camomile ( camomila ) and lime ( tila ).
TAPAS BARS
Dos Palillos c/d'Elisabets 9 933 040 513, dospalillos.com ; Catalunya; map . Flag-
waver for Asian fusion tapas is this hipster hangout, part of the Casa Camper , which offers
à la carte dim sum in the front galley bar (steamed dumplings to grilled oysters and stir-fried
prawns, mostly €5-7) and a back-room, counter-style Asian bar where tasting menus (€60,
€70and€85)wadetheirwaythroughthehighlights.Thefrontbarespeciallyisaplayfultake
on traditional tapas bars (cushions on upturned beer-crates, dusty liqueur bottles and steamer
baskets); there are no reservations taken for this, though you do have to book for the Asian
bar. Tues & Wed 7.30-11.30pm, Thurs-Sat 1.30-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm; closed 2 weeks
in Dec/Jan & 3 weeks in Aug.
Mam i Teca c/de la Lluna 4 934 413 335; Sant Antoni; map . An intimate (code for
verysmall) place forsuperiortapasandfinewines,runbylocal SlowFoodchampion Alfons
Bach.Allthemeatisorganic,theregionalcheesesarewellchosen,andmarket-freshingredi-
ents go to make up things like daily pasta dishes, a platter of grilled vegetables or a simple
serving of lamb cutlets (most dishes €6-22). Finish with chocolate truffles or home-made ice
cream. There are only three or four tables, or you can perch at the bar. Mon, Wed-Fri & Sun
1-4pm & 8pm-midnight, Sat 8pm-midnight; closed 2 weeks in Jan.
Sesamo c/de Sant Antoni Abat 52 934 416 411; Sant Antoni; map . This classy tapas
place (with bar at the front and restaurant tables at the back) offers up a chalkboard menu of
innovative organic dishes that are either vegetarian or vegan. Small and not-so-small dishes
roll out of the open kitchen - think Catalan mushroom croquettes, gnocchi with beetroot and
hazelnuts or grilled vegetables with goat cheese and rosemary, all in the range €7-22. The
Catalan wines and cheeses are a high point too. Tues-Sun 8pm-midnight.
RESTAURANTS.
Bar Ra c/del Carme 31 615 959 872, ratown.com ; Liceu; map . A hip little corner
behind the Boqueria market, with a groove-ridden music policy and a funky feel. “It's not a
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