Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
RESTAURANTS
CATALAN FOOD AND DISHES
Traditional Catalan food places heavy emphasis on meat, olive oil, garlic, fruit and salad.
Thecuisineistypifiedbyawillingnesstomixflavours,sosavourydishescookedwithnuts
or fruit are common, as are salads using both cooked and raw ingredients.
Meat isusuallygrilledandservedwithafewfriedpotatoesorsalad,thoughCatalansaus-
age served with a pool of haricot beans is a classic menu item. Stewed veal and other cas-
seroles are common, while poultry is sometimes mixed with seafood (chicken and prawns)
or fruit (chicken or duck with prunes or pears) for tastes very definitely out of the Spanish
mainstream. In season, game is also available, especially partridge, hare, rabbit and boar.
As for fish and seafood , you'll be offered hake, tuna, squid or cuttlefish, while the local
anchovies are superb. Cod is often salted and turns up in esquiexada , a summer salad of
salt cod, tomatoes, onions and olives. Fish stews are a local speciality, though the main-
stays of seafood restaurants are the rice- and noodle-based dishes. Paella comes originally
from Valencia, but as that region was historically part of Catalunya, the dish has been en-
thusiastically adopted as Catalunya's own. More certainly Catalan is fideuà , thin noodles
served with seafood - you stir in the fiery all i olli (garlic mayonnaise) provided. Arròs
negre (black rice, cooked with squid ink) is another local delicacy.
Vegetables rarelyamounttomorethanafewFrenchfriesorboiledpotatoes,thoughthere
aresomeauthenticCatalanvegetabledishes,likespinachtossedwithraisinsandpinenuts,
or samfaina , a ratatouille-like stew. Spring is the season for calçots , huge spring onions,
whichareroastedwholeandeatenwithaspicy romesco dippingsauce.Autumnseesthear-
rival of wildmushrooms , mixed with rice, omelettes, salads or scrambled eggs. In winter,
a dish of stewed beans or lentils is also a popular starter, almost always flavoured with
bits of sausage, meat and fat.
For dessert , apart from fresh fruit, there's always crème caramel ( flan in Catalan) - fant-
astic when home-made - though crema Catalana is the local choice, more like a crème
brûlée, with a caramelized sugar coating. Or you might be offered músic , nuts and dried
fruit served with a glass of sweet moscatel wine.
Bidasoa c/d'en Serra 21 933 818 063; Drassanes; map . Tucked away on a narrow street
in La Mercè, this third generation-owned restaurant offers simple and fresh Catalan and
Basque-Navarre fare at a good price (€5-€9). Dishes include tapas, soups, salads and tor-
tillas, as well as hearty mains such as garlic chicken and the house speciality (and sure-fire
hangover cure) cocido Bidasoa , a medley of sausage, tender beef and chickpeas in a savory
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