Shetland - The Rough Guide to Scotland - page 574

want to learn about other aspects of Unst's history, head for the nearby Unst Heritage
Centre (May-Sept daily 11am-5pm; £3; T 01957 711528), housed in the old school
building by the main crossroads, where they also put on have-a-go activities such as
spinning, knitting and potting.

Saxa Vord RAF base
Just north of Haroldswick is SAXA VORD (also, confusingly, the name of the nearby
hill), home to the eyesore former RAF base , containing a restaurant, bar and hostel, and
a chocolate factory (Mon-Sat 11.30am-5pm, Sun 1-4pm; free; W foordschocolates
.co.uk), where there's also an exhibition on the history of the RAF on Unst. he former
base is also home to Britain's most northerly brewery, the Valhalla Brewery , source of
Shetland Ales (visits by appointment; T 01957 711658, W valhallabrewery.co.uk).

Hermaness Nature Reserve
he road that heads off northwest from Haroldswick leads eventually to the bleak
headland of Hermaness , home to more than 100,000 nesting sea birds (May-Aug).
here's an excellent visitor centre in the former lighthouse keepers' shore station, where
you can pick up a leaflet showing the marked routes across the reserve. Whatever you
do, stick to the path so as to avoid annoying the vast numbers of nesting great skuas.
From Hermaness Hill, you can look down over the jagged rocks of the wonderfully
named Vesta Skerry, Rumblings, Tipta Skerry and Muckle Flugga . here are few more
dramatic settings for a lighthouse than Muckle Flugga, and few sites could ever have
presented as great a challenge to the builders, who erected it in 1858. Beyond the
lighthouse is Out Stack , the most northerly bit of Britain. he views from here are
marvellous, as is the birdlife; there's a huge gannetry on one of the stacks, and pu ns
burrow all along the clifftops.
ARRIVAL AND TOURS

16

UNST

By ferry T 01595 745804. Ferries shuttle regularly across
Bluemull Sound from Gutcher on Yell over to Belmont on
Unst (every 30-1hr; 10min).
By bus An integrated bus and ferry service goes from
Lerwick to Baltasound on Unst (Mon-Sat 1-2 daily; 2hr
40min). From Belmont, Unst's ferry terminal, buses run to
Uyeasound (Mon-Sat 2-4 daily; 5min), Baltasound

(Mon-Sat 2-3 daily; 15min) and Haroldswick (Mon-Sat
1-2 daily; 30min).
Boat trips If your sea legs are better than your walking
boots, you can opt to see the great sea-bird colonies of
Hermaness with Muckle Flugga Charters ( T 01806 522447,
W muckleflugga.co.uk), operating out of Baltasound or
Burrafirth.

ACCOMMODATION
Gardiesfauld Uyeasound T 01957 755279, W www
.gardiesfauld.shetland.co.uk. A clean and modern hostel
near Uyeasound pier whic h allo ws campi ng, and offers bike
rental. April-Sept. Dorms £15 ; camping £6 /person

Prestagaard Uyeasound T 01957 755234,
E [e-mail]. This attractive,
whitewashed Victorian B&B, with just three roo ms, is
situated in Uyeasound, and has great sea views. £60

EATING AND DRINKING
Baltasound Hotel Baltasound T 01957 711334,
W baltasoundhotel.co.uk. Wherever you stay, it's a good
idea to book yourself in for dinner or self-cater - the only
other option is the bar food at the Baltasound Hotel (mains
£10-18). Daily 5-8pm.
Northern Lights Bistro Haroldswick T 01957 711557.
Spacious, modern café, serving soup, sandwiches and

toasties, with views across the bay, near the Unst Boat
Haven in Haroldswick. April-Sept daily 10am-6pm.
Skibhoul Café & Stores Baltasound. The island's main
shop is attached to the local bakery, has the odd chip
supper night and will fill your flask - there's also a self-
service café and reading corner in the store. Mon-Sat
9.30am-5.30pm.