Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Shetland
Shetland is a striking contrast from neighbouring Orkney. While the latter is
within sight of the Scottish mainland, the archipelago of Shetland lies
beyond the horizon, closer to Bergen in Norway than Edinburgh, and to the
Arctic Circle than Manchester. With little fertile ground, Shetlanders have
traditionally been crofters, often looking to the sea for an uncertain living in
fishing and whaling or the naval and merchant services. The 23,000 islanders
tend to refer to themselves as Shetlanders first, and, with the Shetland flag
widely displayed, they regard Scotland as a separate entity. As in Orkney, the
Mainland is the one in their own archipelago, not the Scottish mainland.
he islands' capital, Lerwick , is a busy little port and the only town of any size; many
parts of Mainland can be reached from here on a day-trip. South Mainland , a narrow
finger of land that runs 25 miles from Lerwick to Sumburgh Head , is an area rich in
archeological remains, including the Iron Age Mousa Broch and the ancient settlement
of Jarlshof . A further 25 miles south of Sumburgh Head is the remote but thriving Fair
Isle , synonymous with knitwear and exceptional birdlife. he Westside of Mainland is
bleaker and more sparsely inhabited, as is North Mainland . A mile off the west coast,
Papa Stour boasts some spectacular caves and stacks; much further out are the
distinctive peaks and precipitous cliffs of the remote island of Foula . Shetland's three
North Isles bring Britain to a dramatic, windswept end: Yell has the largest population
of otters in Shetland; Fetlar is home to the rare red-necked phalarope; north of Unst ,
there's nothing until you reach the North Pole.
Weather has a serious influence in these parts. In winter, gales are routine and even in
the summer months it'll often be windy and rainy. he wind-chill factor is not to be
taken lightly, and there's often a dampness in the air, even when it's not actually
raining. While there are some good spells of dry, sunny weather (often bringing in sea
mist) from May to September, it's the simmer dim , the twilight which lingers through
the small hours at this latitude, which makes Shetland summers so memorable.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
16
SHETLAND
By plane W hial.co.uk Flybe ( T 0871 7002000, W flybe.
com) operate direct flights to Sumburgh airport, 25
miles south of Lerwick, from Inverness, Aberdeen,
Edinburgh, Glasgow and Kirkwall in Orkney, plus
summer flights from Bergen in Norway.
By ferry NorthLink runs overnight car ferries daily from
Aberdeen to Lerwick, sometimes calling in at Kirkwall in
Orkney on the way.
GETTING AROUND AND TOURS
By plane Directflight ( T 01595 840306, W directflight
.co.uk/shetland) runs flights from Tingwall airport ( T 01595
745745), 5 miles west of Lerwick, to the more remote
islands. To reach Tingwall airport, there's a dial-a-ride taxi
service (£1.70), which must be booked a day in advance.
By ferry The council-run inter-island ferries ( T 01595
743970, W www.shetland.gov.uk/ferries) are excellent
and fares are very low.
By bus The bus network ( T 01595 744868, W zettrans.
org.uk) is pretty good in Shetland, with buses from Lerwick
to every corner of Mainland, and even via ferries across to
Yell and Unst.
Shetland ponies p.559
Böds p.560
Lerwick's festivals p.561
The Shetland Bus p.564
Walking on Papa Stour p.569
 
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