Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Am Politician Rubha Ban T 01878 720246 The island's
purpose-built pub, near the two cemeteries on the west
coast, offers an extensive bar menu, as well as home-made
cakes and coffee, and great views out to sea from its
conservatory. Easter-Oct Mon-Sat 11am-11pm
(sometimes later), Sun noon-11pm; Oct-Easter open
some
weekends
11am-11pm;
food
served
noon-7.45pm.
Oir na Mara T 01878 720216. This plain, modern
bungalow B&B is better inside than out. It's situated near
Eriskay's pub, around a 15 min walk from the Barra-Eriskay
ferry terminal. Free wi-fi. £80 .
14
Barra (Barraigh)
Four miles wide and eight miles long, Barra is the Western Isles in miniature: sandy
beaches backed by machair, mountains of Lewissian gneiss, prehistoric ruins, Gaelic
culture and a laidback, welcoming Catholic population of around 1200. Like some feudal
island state, it was ruled over for centuries, with relative benevolence, by the MacNeils.
Unfortunately, the family sold the island in 1838 to Colonel Gordon of Cluny, who had
also bought Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay. he colonel deemed the starving crofters
“redundant” and offered to turn Barra into a state penal colony. he government declined,
so the colonel called in the police and proceeded with some of the most cruel forced
Clearances in the Hebrides. In 1937, the 45th chief of the MacNeil clan bought back most
of the island, and in 2003 gifted the estate to the Scottish government.
Castlebay (Bàgh a Chaisteil)
he only settlement of any size is CASTLEBAY (Bàgh a Chaisteil), which curves around
the barren rocky hills of a wide bay on the south side of the island. It's di cult to
imagine, but Castlebay was a herring port of some significance back in the nineteenth
century, with hundreds of boats in the harbour and curing and packing factories
ashore. Barra's religious allegiance is immediately announced by the large Catholic
church, Our Lady, Star of the Sea, which overlooks the bay; to underline the point,
there's a Madonna and Child on the slopes of Sheabhal (1260ft), the largest peak on
Barra and a fairly easy hike from the bay.
Kisimul Castle
April-Sept daily 9.30am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm • £5.50; HS • T 01871 810313 • Access by ferry (every 30min), weather permitting
As its name suggests, Castlebay has a castle in its bay, the picturesque medieval
islet-fortress of Caisteal Chiosmuil, or Kisimul Castle , ancestral home of the MacNeil
clan. he castle burnt down in the eighteenth century, but when the 45th MacNeil
chief - conveniently enough, a wealthy American and trained architect - bought the
island back in 1937, he set about restoring the castle. here's nothing much to see
inside, but the whole experience is fun - head down to the slipway at the bottom of
Main Street, where the ferryman will take you over.
Dualchas
The Square • March, April & Sept Mon, Wed & Fri 10.30am-4.30pm; May-Aug Mon-Sat same hours • £2 • W barraheritage.com
he Barra Heritage Centre, known as Dualchas , is on the road that leads west out of
town. It's an unpretentious little museum, housing the odd treasure like the
monstrance from St Barr's Church in Northbay. here are lots of old newspapers,
photo archives and local memoirs to trawl through, plus a handy café.
The north
In the north, Barra is squeezed between two sandy bays: the dune-backed west side
taking the full force of the Atlantic breakers, while the east side boasts the crunchy shell
 
 
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