Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Scarista
(Sgarasta), where one of the first of the Hebridean Clearances took place in
1828, when thirty families were evicted and their homes burnt.
Seallam!
Northton (Taobh Tuath) • Mon-Sat 10am-5pm • £2.50 •
T
01859 520258,
W
seallam.com
here's loads of information on local history, geology, flora and fauna at
Seallam!
, a
purpose-built heritage centre close to the village of
Northton
(Taobh Tuath),
overlooked by the round-topped hill of Chaipabhal at the westernmost tip of South
Harris. As well as detailing the area's history of emigration, it's a useful centre for
ancestor-hunters, and there's a good section on St Kilda (see p.511).
14
Leverburgh (An t-Ob)
he west coast road trims the island's south shore, eventually reaching the sprawling
settlement of
LEVERBURGH
(An t-Ob). Named after Lord Leverhulme, who planned to
turn the place into the largest fishing port on the west coast of Scotland in the 1920s,
it's the terminal for the CalMac
car
ferry
service to Berneray and the Uists across the
skerry-strewn Sound of Harris.
Rodel (Roghadal)
A mile or so from Renish Point (Rubha Reanais), the southern tip of Harris, is the old
port of
RODEL
(Roghadal), where a smattering of ancient stone houses lies among the
hillocks, and the venerable
Rodel Hotel
sits by the old harbour, where the ferry from
Skye used to arrive.
St Clement's Church (Tur Chliamainn)
For opening times phone ahead •
T
01851 710395,
W
historic-scotland.gov.uk
On top of one of Rodel's grassy humps, with sheep grazing in the graveyard, is
St Clement's Church
(Tur Chliamainn), burial place of the MacLeods of Harris and
Dunvegan in Skye. Dating from the 1520s - in other words pre-Reformation, hence the
big castellated tower (which you can climb) - the church was restored in 1873 by the
Countess of Dunmore. he bare interior is distinguished by its wall tombs, notably that
of the founder, Alasdair Crotach, whose heavily weathered e
gy lies beneath an
intriguing backdrop and canopy of sculpted reliefs depicting vernacular and religious
scenes - elemental representations of, among others, a stag hunt, the Holy Trinity, St
Michael and the devil, and an angel weighing the souls of the dead. Look out, too, for
the
sheila-na-gig
halfway up the south side of the church tower; unusually, she has a
brother displaying his genitalia, below a carving of St Clement on the west face.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
SOUTH HARRIS
By ferry
There's a daily ferry to and from Berneray, North
Uist (3-4 daily; 1hr).
By bus
There's a regular bus connection along the west
coast between Leverburgh and Tarbert (Mon-Sat 6-8
daily; 45min-1hr), and a less frequent one via the Bays on
the east coast (Mon-Sat 2-4 daily; 1hr).
Tourist information
On the north side of the bay is the
An Clachan
co-op store which houses a small information
o
ce (Mon-Sat 9am-6pm;
T
01859 520370).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
THE BAYS
Ì
Lickisto Blackhouse Camping
Lickisto (Liceasto)
T
01851 530485,
W
freewebs.com/vanvon.
There's
fresh bread and eggs available, a peat fire to warm you in
the kitchen blackhouse and toile
ts in
the byre
s. Yu
rts also
available. Closed Nov-Feb. Yurts
£70
; camping
£24
/pitch
Ì
Old School House
Finsbay (Fionnsbhagh)
T
01859
530420,
friendly couple run this nicely converted Victorian former
village schoolhouse, which comes with free wi-fi, good
home coo
king
and huge portions for dinner (£20-30) and
breakfast.
£70
THE WEST COAST
Beul-na-Mara
Seilebost
T
01859 550205,
W
beulnamara.co.uk.
This is a perfectly decent B&B run
W
theoldschoolhousefinsbay.com.
A very
