Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
13
south to see crofting ruins before the Sgurr cliffs - the remains of Upper and Lower
Grulin settlements. If the tide is low you can scramble along the shore into Cathedral
Cave or Massacre Cave (
Uamh Fhraing)
, where all but one of Eigg's 396 inhabitants
died in 1577, suffocated by the MacLeod's of Skye who lit a fire in the mouth. Bring a
torch and prepare to feel spooked.
An Sgurr
he largest piece of pitchstone in the UK,
An Sgurr
(393m) is the obvious destination for
a hike. Actually, the route up is not as daunting as the cliffs suggest; the path is signposted
left from the main road, crossing boggy moor to approach the summit from the north via
a saddle (3-4hr return). he rewards are wonderful views to Muck and Rùm.
Cleadale
For an easy stroll, strike out to
CLEADALE
, the main crofting settlement in north
Rùm. It's spectacularly sited beneath the island's basalt ridge,
Ben Bhuidhe
, and above
a beach known as Camas Sgiotaig, or the
Singing Sands
, because the quartz grains
squeak underfoot.
ARRIVAL, GETTING AROUND AND INFORMATION
EIGG
By ferry
Summer timetables are:
Canna-Eigg (Mon & Sat 1
daily; 2hr 10min); Mallaig-Eigg (Mon, Tues Eigg-Mallaig only
1 daily, Thurs, Sat 1 daily; 1hr 15min); Muck-Eigg (Thurs 1
daily; 35min); Rùm-Eigg (Mon & Sat 1 daily; 1hr-3hr 30min).
By minibus or bike
A minibus is scheduled around ferries
(
T
01687 482494; £2), or Charlie's taxi
can be booked in
advance (
T
01687 482494). Bike rental is available from
Eigg Adventures (late April-Sept;
T
01687 315012,
T
eiggadventures.co.uk), based near the harbour.
Tourist information
W
isleofeigg.org.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
There's an excellent
wild camp
on north Galmisdale Bay. A craft and produce
market
in the community hall uphill from
Galmisdale (June-Aug Mon noon-4pm) is a great spot to pick up lunch.
An Laimhrig
Harbour
. Island ingredients go into home-
made soups, quiche, pizza, lamb or venison burgers, plus
blackboard specials such as fishcakes - all for under a
tenner.
Mon 10am-1pm, Wed & Fri 10am-10pm, Sat
1-10pm, winter open around ferry schedules.
Glebe Barn
Galmisdale
T
01687 482417.
Eigg's hostel
on the hill above the harbour has a rather stylish, spacious
lounge with awesome coast views and pleasant wee dorm
rooms. Better still is the self-contained cottagey Tigh Ard
Beag annex
e -
a super
b sta
y for up to five
peop
le.
April-
Oct.
Dorms
£17
; twins
£40
, annexe for two
£52
Kildonan House
Galmisdale Bay
T
01687 482446,
W
kildonanhouseeigg.co.uk.
A traditional stay in an
eighteenth-century farmhouse on the north side of
Galmisdale Bay. Marie offers three pleasingly simple pine-
panelled rooms, one with an en-suite shower, all with sea
views and dinners included.
£120
Ì
Lageorna
Cleadale
T
01687 460081,
W
lageorna
.com.
Beautiful, modern rooms full of contemporary crafts
- think rustic wood beds and knitted throws - and
astonishing views, plus a lovely vintage cottage that sleeps
four. The owner also prepares good-value dishes such as
salmon on a bed of spicy puy lentils; reservations
recommended.
Easter-Sept Mon-Wed & Fri noon-
4pm, dinner by arr
ange
ment,
other
months by
arrangement.
Doubles
£140
; cottage
£500
Sue Holland's Croft
Cleadale
T
01687 482480,
W
eiggorganics.co.uk.
On an organic croft, this is the only
designated campsite and it's a belter, with views and
sunsets to inspire poetry. The old cowshed is now a basic
bothy for up to four
or
for considerably more
comf
ort
choose a yurt. Camping
£5
/person; bothy and yurt
£40
Muck
Barely two miles long, tiny
Muck
is the smallest and most southerly of the Small Isles.
Low-lying and almost treeless, it is extremely fertile, so has more in common with Coll
and Tiree than its neighbours. Its name derives from
muc
, the Gaelic for “pig” (or
possibly
muc mara
, “sea pig” or porpoise, which are plentiful) and has long caused
embarrassment to lairds - they preferred to call it the “Isle of Monk” because it briefly
belonged to the medieval church.
