Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Fortrose and Rosemarkie
FORTROSE
, ten miles northeast of Inverness, is a quietly elegant village dominated by
the beautiful ruins of a once huge early thirteenth-century
cathedral
(daily
9.30am-5.30pm; free) founded by King David I. It languishes on a pretty green
bordered by red-sandstone and colourwashed houses.
ROSEMARKIE
, a mile on, is
equally appealing, with its neat high street of stone houses.
Groam House Museum
High St, Rosemarkie • March-Oct Mon-Fri 11am-4.30pm, Sat 2-4.30pm; Nov-early Dec Sat 2-4pm • Free •
T
01381 620961,
W
groamhouse.org.uk
Located at the lower end of Rosemarkie's high street,
Groam House Museum
displays
fifteen intricately carved
Pictish standing stones
(among them the famous Rosemarkie
Cross Slab) dating from as early as the eighth century. It also screens a video that
highlights other sites in a region that was a stronghold of Pictish culture - a primer to
tempt any history buff into a visit to Portmahomack (p.476).
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
FORTROSE AND ROSEMARKIE
By bus
Stagecoach buses #23 and #26 from Inverness to
Cromarty stop at both villages (Mon-Sat every 30min,
Sun 4 daily; 30-35min).
Cromarty
An appealing jumble of handsome Georgian townhouses and pretty workers' cottages
knitted together by a cat's-cradle of lanes,
CROMARTY
, the Black Isle's main settlement,
is simply a joy to wander. An ancient ferry crossing on the pilgrimage trail to Tain, it
became a prominent port in 1772, fuelling a period of prosperity that gave Cromarty
some of the Highlands' finest Georgian houses. he railways poached that trade in the
nineteenth century - a branch line to the town was begun but never completed - but
the flip side of stagnation is preservation. Out of town, there's a fine four-mile circular
coastal
walk
: leave town to the east on Miller Road and turn right when the lane
becomes “he Causeway”. For a simpler shoreline walk, turn left here, following the
path to the water.
12
Cromarty Courthouse
Church St • April-Sept Sun-Thurs noon-4pm • £2 •
T
01381 600418,
W
cromarty-courthouse.org.uk
he streets are gorgeous, but to help bring Cromarty's past alive try this child-friendly
museum
in the old
Courthouse
, which tells the history of the courthouse and town
using audiovisuals and “talking” mannequins in period costume. You are also issued
with an audio handset and a map for an excellent
walking tour
around the town.
Hugh Miller's birthplace
Church St • Late March to Sept daily noon-5pm; Oct Tues, Thurs & Fri noon-5pm • £6.50; NTS •
T
01381 600245,
W
hughmiller.org
Cromarty's most celebrated son is
Hugh Miller
, a nineteenth-century stonemason turned
author, journalist, geologist, folklorist and Free Church campaigner. His thatched cottage
birthplace
has been restored to give an idea of what Cromarty must have been like in his day,
with decor that swings between cosy rustic and rather formal Victoriana, and displays that
highlight his efforts as a social reformer. Friendly staff and a pretty garden add to the appeal.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
CROMARTY
By bus
Stagecoach buses #23 and #26 run from Inverness
main bus station (Mon-Sat every 30min, Sun 5 daily; 1hr).
By ferry
Scotland's smallest ferry, the two-car service
between Nigg and Cromarty (late July to Sept daily
8am-6.15pm, until 7.15pm July & Aug; £2.50;
T
01381
610269 or 07879 401659,
W
cromarty-ferry.co.uk) sails
from the jetty near the lighthouse.
