Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ACHMELVICH
, three miles northwest of Lochinver, where a tiny bay cradles a white-sand
beach lapped by azure water. It's popular (relatively speaking), but there are equally
seductive beaches up the coast, including a tiny, hidden cove,
Port Alltan na Bradhan
, a
mile north, plus a beautiful strand at
CLACHTOLL
a couple of miles beyond.
Point of Stoer
A side road that branches north off the B869 between
STOER
and
CLASHNESSIE
ends
abruptly by a lighthouse at
Ra
n
. he reason to come is a two-mile stroll along a
boggy track to reach the
Old Man of Stoer
, a 197ft rock stack just off the headland's
tip, surrounded by sheer cliffs and occasionally scaled by climbers. It's worth a
circuit around the south side of the headland to return with a vast view of the
mountains of Assynt.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
NORTH OF LOCHINVER
Achmelvich Beach SYHA
Achmelvich
T
01571
844480,
W
syha.org.uk.
Although the open-plan lounge-
kitchen of this 27-bed hostel in a former school and cottage
struggles when full, most people are outside anyway - just
100m away are the white sands of the beach. Dorms and
private twins are available. Closed mi
d-Se
pt to E
aste
r, as
well as weekdays Sept & Easter. Dorms
£18
; twins
£42
Clachtoll Beach Campsite
Clachtoll
T
01571
855377,
W
clachtollbeachcampsite.co.uk.
Less is
often more in campsites - less concrete, more nature -
and this simple, neat site at the heart of the crofting
village is all about its location right behind one of the
most appealing stretches of p
owd
er white sand on the
west coast. Closed Oct-Easter.
£14
/pitch
Split Rock Croft
145 Clachtoll
T
01571 855215,
W
splitrockcroftbb.co.uk.
B&B on a new-build working
croft that's as welcoming as its young owners. Has
spacious, quietly luxurious en suites - the Skye Room
has sea views, the suite-style Garden Ter
race
has a
kitchenette. Breakfasts are all home-grown.
£80
12
Kylesku and around
Until a road bridge swept over the mouth of lochs Glencoul and Glendhu,
KYLESKU
,
33 miles north of Ullapool, was the embarkation point for a ferry that was the only
link to north Scotland. Off the main road since the bridge's construction in 1984, it's
now a beautiful, soporific spot, where interlocking slopes plunge into the deep waters.
Marking a last hurrah before the Assynt's sharp sandstone gives way to rounded
quartzite, Kylesku is popular with walkers due to its proximity to
Quinag
(2651ft), less
a single Munro than several peaks reached by a
ridge walk
. he easiest ascent is from a
car park on the A894 a few miles south of Kylesku. Also in the area is Britain's highest
waterfall,
Eas a Chùal Aluinn
(650ft), at the head of Loch Glencoul. It's five miles return
east of a car park two miles south of Kylesku or a full day on a track around the north
side of both lochs. Alternatively, boat tours run from the wharf.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
KYLESKU AND AROUND
By bus
D&E Coaches' (
T
01463 222444) summer-only
service from Inverness to Durness via Ullapool and Lochinver
stops at Kylesku. It can carry bikes with reservation.
Destinations
Inverness (late May to Sept 1 daily Mon-
Sat, plus Sun 1 daily in July & Aug; 4hr); Lochinver (same
times; 30min).
ACTIVITIES
Boat trips
Alongside boat trips to Eas a Chùal Aluinn
aboard the Rachael Clare (Easter-Sept 2-3 daily; round
trip 1.5hr; £25;
T
01971 502239 or 07921 149086,
W
rachaelclare.com), the operator also runs a number of
specials afloat, including wildlife safaris, geography
tours with a geologist and evening mackerel fishing.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Ì
Kylesku Hotel
Kylesku
T
01971 502231,
W
kyleskuhotel.co.uk. Refurbishment over 2012-13 has
created a small hotel of crisp, modern style - soft natural
tones, tweed headboards - beside the loch. It provides by
far the best food in the area, all sourced locally. Expect the
likes of turbot with vermouth and chive sauce (£14), well-
hun
g steak a
nd home-made fish pie. Closed early Nov to
Feb.
£92.50
