Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
in miniature, threading through stunted beech woods, heaving valleys, open moorland and
bare rock, past the startling shapes of Cul Beag (2523ft), Cul Mor (2785ft) and the
distinctive sugar-loaf
Suilven
(2398ft) until it slaloms along the sea shore to Inverkirkaig,
the start of two fantastic walks (see below).
LOCHINVER
, another two miles north, marks the
return to civilization. One of the busier fishing harbours in Scotland, the small town
(oversized village, really) has a pleasingly down-to-earth atmosphere. Factor in good
accommodation and a growing reputation for food, and it makes a natural base for the area.
Inverkirkaig Falls and Suilven
A car park in Inverkirkaig, two miles south of Lochinver, marks the start of a
walk
upriver
to
Falls
of Kirkaig
, itself the start of a long but gentle walk to the base of
Suilven
- its huge
sandstone dome is as much of a landmark today as it was for Viking sailors. Serious hikers
use the path as an approach to scale the peak (10-12hr), but you can also follow it for an
easy five-mile, three-hour (return) ramble, taking in a waterfall and a secluded loch.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
LOCHINVER AND AROUND
By bus
Lochinver may be large by local standards, but
connections are not great.
Destinations
Inverness (May-Sept Mon-Sat 1 daily, plus
Sun 1 daily in July & Aug; 3hr 10min); Ullapool (Mon-Sat 2
daily school termtime only;1hr).
Tourist information
The
Assynt Visitor Centre in central
Lochinver (Easter to mid-June & Sept-Oct Mon-Sat
10am-4pm; mid-June to Aug Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm, Sun
11am-3pm;
T
01571 844194,
T
lochinver.org.uk) has
displays on geology, wildlife and history and is stuffed with
local tourist information, including a booklet of
Walks
around Assynt
(£2).
12
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Some of the local accommodation is in a conjoined village,
Baddidarrach
, on the north side of the loch; from Lochinver,
cross the bridge and turn left.
Ì
The Albannach
Baddidarrach
T
01571 844407,
W
thealbannach.co.uk.
Lesley Crosfield and Colin Craig's
Victorian house provides a stay of exquisite taste and
astonishing views of Suilven. Individually decorated rooms
vary from romantic to hip, with great bathrooms. The couple
also possess Britain's most northerly Michelin star: six-course
set menus (dinner included for residents; £65 for non-
residents) of modern European food created from local and
home-grown ingredients are brilliant without ever showing
off. No children under 12.
Food served from
6pm:
mid-
March to Oct & Dec Tues-Sun; Nov Thurs-Sun.
£295
Inver Lodge
Signed off Main St,
Lochinver
T
01571
844496,
W
inverlodge.com.
Refurbishment of a hillside
hotel has created a five-star stay, featuring relaxed
contemporary decor with a nod to Highlands country style,
and loch views. The latter are at their best from the
restaurant, an outpost of
Chez Roux
, with fresh seafood plus
rich French country dishes like confit
pork
belly; menus
start at £43.
April-Oct daily 6-10pm.
£215
Ì
Lochinver Larder, Main Street, near bridge
T
01571 844356.
Sensational home-made pies, including
exotics like wild boar, port and prune have made it famous,
but this fine bistro prepares other food too: seafood linguine
or home-made fishcakes (£13) or langoustine in lime, ginger
and chilli butter (£19). Superb takeaways too: those pies,
focaccia and baked potatoes.
Daily: Easter-Oct 10am-8pm;
Nov-Easter 11am-3pm. Closed first fortnight in Jan.
Lochinver Mission
Lochinver harbour
T
01571
844324,
W
lochinvermission.org.uk.
New in 2011, the
former seamen's mission by the harbour is now a
community-run bunkhouse. It has three modern
dorms - spotless if a bit bare and tight for space
in the six-bed - plus a good kitchen and laundry
facilities. The
price
includes breakfast in the café
beneath. Dorms
£18
Veyatie
Baddidarrach
T
01571 844424,
W
veyatie
-scotland.co.uk.
Gorgeous views across the loch and a
warm welcome in a B&B of immaculate rooms with
excellent new showers. Patterned bedspreads and local
pottery soften modern furnishings and hotel-quality
extras with homely char
m. Tw
o nights minimum April-
Sept is no great hardship.
£86
North of Lochinver
here are two routes
north
from Lochinver: the fast A837 along the shore of Loch Assynt
to join the A894, or the scenic B869 coast road. Hugging the indented shoreline, the latter
offers coastal views, superb
beaches
and high cliff walks. he first village worth a detour is
