Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Wester Ross
Wester Ross
, the western seaboard of the old county of Ross-shire, is where the west
coast ups the ante. Here, all the classic elements of Scotland's
coastal scenery
- craggy
mountains, sandy beaches, whitewashed crofting cottages and shimmering island views -
come together. Settlements such as
Applecross
and the peninsulas north and south of
Gairloch
maintain a simplicity and sense of isolation outside of peak season. here is
some tough but wonderful
hiking
in the mountains around
Torridon
and
Coigach
,
while
boat trips
and the prolific sealife and birdlife draw nature-lovers. he hub of life
is
Ullapool
, a proper wee fishing town and ferry port whose modest size ranks as a
metropolis in these parts.
The Applecross peninsula
he
Applecross
peninsula
sounds bucolic; the English-sounding name is a corruption
of the Gaelic
Apor Crosan
, meaning “estuary”. Yet the approach from the south - up a
glacial U-shaped valley and over the
Bealach na Bà
(“Pass of the Cattle”) at 2054ft - is
one of the classic drives and cycle pistes of the Highlands. A former drovers' road
provides the greatest road ascent in the UK, with a 1:5 gradient and switchbacks
worthy of the Alps. Views across the Minch to Raasay and Skye more than compensate -
assuming the weather plays ball. he other way in from the north is a beautiful coast
road that meanders from Shieldaig on Loch Torridon, past scattered crofting villages
and with gorgeous seascapes.
12
Applecross
he sheltered, fertile coast around
APPLECROSS
village, where the Irish missionary
monk Maelrubha founded a monastery in 673 AD, is a surprise after experiencing
the wilds that surround it. hough popular in peak season, it feels exhilaratingly
remote, with little to do but potter along lanes, paddle a kayak or build sandcastles
on the beach. A small
Heritage Centre
(April-Oct Mon-Sat noon-4pm;
W
applecrossheritage.org.uk) near the site of St Maelrubha's monastery, and beside
Clachan church, showcases local history and several
waymarked trails
along the
shore are great for walking off lunch.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
APPLECROSS
By bus
The Dial-A-Bus (
T
01520 722205) between
Strathcarron and Achnasheen calls at Applecross.
Tourist information
There's an info point maintained by
the campsite opposite the fuel pumps in the centre of the
village (Easter-Oct; opening times erratic). Village
websites are
W
applecross.info and
W
applecross.uk.com.
ACTIVITIES
Applecross Mountain & Sea
T
01520/744394,
W
applecross.uk.com.
Located by the fuel pumps, this
company organizes mountain walking and climbing
adventures, plus sea-kayaking, from half-day tasters to
overnight wild camp trips.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Applecross Campsite
East of the centre
T
01520
744268,
W
applecross.uk.com/campsite.
A popular, well-
run two-field site above the village - the furthest field is the
quietest. It also provides basic camping cabins that sleep four,
has a buzzy bar and rustles up breakfasts and a menu of stone-
baked pizzas and bistro stables like venison casserole or
home-made fishcakes in the
Flower Tunnel
café (mains
£8-12). Site closed Nov-Fe
b.
F
ood served M
ay to
mid-Sept
daily 9am-9pm.
Camping
£9
/person; cabins
£48
Applecross Inn
On the waterfront
T
01520 744262,
W
applecross.uk.com.
The heart of the community
provides pretty, cottagey en suites in the eaves, all with sea
views. In the lively bar downstairs are Highland ales and
freshly prepared classic pastas and pies plus Applecross Bay
prawns and crab (mains around £10-14). Reservations
recommende
d in s
eason.
Daily noon-11pm; food served
noon-9pm.
£120
The Potting Shed
Signed from back of the bay
