Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
HIKING IN GLEN SHIEL
Ordnance Survey Explorer map 414
The mountains of
Glen Shiel
, rising dramatically from sea level to over 3000ft in less than a
couple of miles, offer some of the best hiking routes in Scotland. Taking in a bumper crop of
Munros, the classic
Five Sisters traverse
is claimed by some walkers to be the best
day-walk in Scotland. Allow ten hours to complete the whole 19km route, which starts at a
lay-by off the A87 in Glen Shiel. The distinctive chain of mountains across the glen from the
Five Sisters is the
Kintail Ridge
, with breathtaking views south across Knoydart and the
islands of the west.
Don't underestimate either of these two routes: walkers come unstuck here every year, so only
attempt them if you're confident in your walking experience, and have a map and a compass.
Kintail
Lodge Hotel
Shiel Bridge
T
01599 511275,
W
kintaillodgehotel.co.uk.
A Victorian pile on the loch's
east shore with twelve hotel rooms plus dorm-style hostel
accommodation in the
well-named
Wee Bunkhouse
plus
simple twins and singles in the
Trekkers' Lodge
. Its
Kintail
Bar
serves good pub-grub such a
s steak
-and-ale pies o
r fish
and ch
ips
(£10). Hotel doubles
£130
; lodge twins
£30
;
dorms
£15
Ratagan SYHA
Ratagan, 2 miles south of Shiel Bridge
T
01599 511243,
W
syha.org.uk.
Superbly sited on the
loch, with views across to the Five Sisters. Traditional in
public areas but dorms are more IKEA-esque. It also runs
guided walks an
d b
eginners'
sea-ka
yaking sessions.
March-Oct. Dorms
£17
, doubles
£44.20
Shielbridge Caravan Park & Campsite
Shiel Bridge
T
01599 511221,
W
shielbridgecaravanpark.co.uk.
A
minor legend among hikers thanks to its superb location
at the west end of Glen Shiel beneath the Five Sisters.
Fin
d it off the A87 behind the garage. Mid-March to Oct.
£6
/person
12
The Glenelg peninsula
In contrast to Loch Duich, the
Glenelg peninsula
is one of the region's more remote
areas. Even though summer tra
c trickles through for the Kylerhea ferry to Skye, this
little-known crofting area remains a quiet backwater jutting into the Sound of Sleat -
one benefit of being on a road to nowhere. Indeed, the peninsula has probably changed
little since Gavin Maxwell wrote about it in his otter novel
Ring of Bright Water
and he
disguised its pristine coast by calling it “Camusfearnà”. he landward approach is
equally impressive on a road that switchbacks over the Mam Ratagan Pass (1115ft)
with a spectacular view over the
Five Sisters
massif. he main village,
GLENELG
, is an
appealingly soporific spot - a row of whitewashed houses, surrounded by trees, that
shows little indication of its time as a strategic centre in the 1700s, when a large
barracks kept clans in check. he ruins of Bernera Barracks are on the left as you drive
to the ferry.
Glenelg Brochs
Nearly two miles south of Glenelg, a left turn up Glen Beag leads to the
Glenelg
Brochs
, one of the best-preserved Iron Age monuments in Scotland. Its spectacular
circular towers - Dun Telve and Dun Troddan - stand in a sheltered valley and are
thought to have been erected around two thousand years ago to protect surrounding
settlements from raiders.
Arnisdale
A lonely back road beyond Glenelg village snakes southeast through a scattering of old
crofting hamlets, timber forests and views that grow more spectacular at each bend.
Eventually you drop down to the shore of Loch Hourn at
ARNISDALE
, actually two
hamlets in the bosom of the mountains:
Camusbane
, a traditional crofting settlement
ranged behind a pebble beach; and
Corran
, a mile further, a minuscule whitewashed
fishing hamlet huddled around a river mouth. Display boards in the latter's
Ceilidh
House and Heritage Centre
(always open; free) relate local history, including that of
