Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Road to the Isles
he “
Road to the Isles
”
from Fort William to Mallaig, followed by the West Highland
Railway and the winding A830, traverses the mountains and glens of the Rough
Bounds before breaking out near
Arisaig
onto a spectacular coast of sheltered inlets,
white beaches and wonderful views to the islands of Rùm, Eigg, Muck and Skye. his
is a country commonly associated with
Bonnie Prince Charlie
, whose adventures of
1745-46 began on this stretch of coast with his gathering of the clans at
Glenfinnan
and ended here too when he embarked near Arisdale and fled into French exile.
Glenfinnan
GLENFINNAN
may be spectacularly sited at the head of Loch Shiel, yet it's Scottish
history that draws most visitors, since it was here that Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his
standard and rallied forces before the ill-fated march on London (see p.418). he spot
where the Young Pretender raised his battle standard on August 19, 1745 is marked by
a
column
crowned with a Highland clansman in full battle dress, erected as a tribute by
Alexander Macdonald of Glenaladale in 1815. It's a beautiful, brooding spot at the
head of the loch that's best appreciated from a viewpoint behind a
visitor centre
(daily
April, May, June, Sept & Oct 10am-5pm; July & Aug 9.30am-5.30pm; £3; NTS;
T
0844 493 2221,
W
nts.org.uk), which gives an account of the '45 uprising through to
the rout at Culloden (see p.418).
Glenfinnan Station Museum
Station Cottage • Daily April to mid-Oct 9am-5pm • 75p •
T
01397 722295,
W
glenfinnanstationmuseum.co.uk
he town's second claim to fame is for one of the most spectacular parts of the
West
Highland Railway
line (see p.444), which chuffs over the 21-arched Loch nan Uamh
viaduct
built in 1901. You might recognize it from
Harry Potter
films, in which it is
crossed by the
Hogwart's Express
- Loch Shiel itself serves as the “Dark Lake” seen from
the ramparts of Hogwart's.
Head to the
Glenfinnan Station Museum
in the village centre to learn more about the
history of this section of the railway in a modest museum in the old booking o
ce -
no surprise that the gift shop is stuffed with Harry Potter merchandise. Enthusiastic
rail buffs can stay the night or dine here (see below).
ARRIVAL, GETTING AROUND AND INFORMATION
12
GLENFINNAN
By train
A direct service links Fort William to Glenfinnan
(Mon-Sat 3-4 daily; 35min)
By boat
Loch Shiel Cruises (
T
01687 470322,
W
highlandcruises.co.uk) run several trips to view the
superb scenery between Easter and Sept. Cruises embark
from a jetty near
Glenfinnan House Hotel
,
signposted off the
main road half a mile from the monument.
Tourist information
W
road-to-the-isles.org.uk.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Prince's House
Glenfinnan
T
01397 722246,
W
glenfinnan.co.uk.
This former seventeeth-century
coaching inn offers comfy rooms - the best at the front nod
to Highlands tradition. The fine restaurant offers a
seasonal, fresh menu or there's gastro-pub grub in the bar;
expect West Coast scallops, lamb and venison. Mains
average £12-16. Closed Jan-Feb.
Food
served Easter-
Sept daily 11am-3pm & 6-10pm.
£120
Sleeping Car
Glenfinnan station
T
01397 722295,
W
glenfinnanstationmuseum.co.uk.
A 1958 camping
coach is now a mini-hostel with three twin compartments
(bunk beds), a family compartment for four, plus a kitchen,
lounge and bathroom - a memorable if slightly cramped
place to stay. The adjacent
Dining Car
is open for light
lunches from April to Sept (
dail
y 10am-
5pm
; phone ahead
for evening meals). Dorms
£14
; doubles
£28
Arisaig to Morar
hough short, this is a superb coast - all white sands, turquoise seas and rocky islets
draped with orange seaweed. Better still, thanks to a bypass road to Mallaig, the
spectacular coast road (signposted “Alternative Coastal Route”) is fairly quiet -
touring heaven.
