Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
BLOODY TALES BEYOND THE BEAUTY
Although best known for its windswept slopes and glassy lochs, the Great Glen has a turbulent
and bloody
history
. Founded in 1655 and named in honour of William III, the town of Fort
William was successfully held by government troops during both of the Jacobite risings. The
country to the southwest, meanwhile, is inextricably associated with Bonnie Prince Charlie's
flight after
Culloden
(see p.418).
Glen Coe
is another historic site with a violent past,
renowned as much for the infamous massacre of 1692 as for its magnificent scenery.
developments which nevertheless has a lively, youthful feel to it. A little way north,
Grantown-on-Spey
is more attractive, with solid Victorian mansions but much less
vitality, while smaller settlements such as
Boat of Garten
are quieter.
Downriver, Strathspey gives way to the area known as
Speyside
, famous as the heart
of Scotland's malt whisky industry. In addition to the Malt Whisky Trail that leads
round a number of well-known distilleries in the vicinity of places such as
Dufftown
,
the lesser-known
Speyside Way
, another of Scotland's long-distance footpaths, offers
the chance to enjoy the scenery of the region, as well as its whiskies, on foot.
11
GETTING AROUND
THE GREAT GLEN AND RIVER SPEY
By bus
The Great Glen is reasonably well served by buses,
with several daily services between Inverness and Fort
William. There are also frequent buses connecting Inverness
with Aviemore and Grantown-on-Spey. Further north in
malt whisky country, services are extremely limited.
By car
The main A82 road runs the length of the Great
Glen, although relatively high tra
c levels mean that it's
not a fast or particularly easy route to drive. The A9 and A95
allow for quick hops between towns on the western side of
the Cairngorms, but elsewhere within the national park
roads are necessarily narrower (and slower).
By boat
The traditional and most rewarding way to travel
through the Great Glen is by boat: a flotilla of kayaks, small
yachts and pleasure vessels take advantage of the Caledonian
Canal and its old wooden locks during the summer.
By bike
Well-marked routes make it possible to cycle all
the way from Fort William to Inverness. Mountain bikers
especially are drawn to the Cairngorms, where there are
excellent trails for beginners and experts.
On foot
The 79-mile Great Glen Way links Fort William
with Inverness, and takes five to six days to walk in full (see
box opposite).
Fort William
With its stunning position on Loch Linnhe, tucked in below the snow-streaked bulk of
Ben Nevis,
FORT WILLIAM
(known by the many walkers and climbers that come here as
“Fort Bill”) should be a gem. Sadly, the same lack of taste that nearly saw the town
renamed “Abernevis” in the 1950s is evident in the ribbon bungalow development and
ill-advised dual carriageway - complete with grubby pedestrian underpass - which have
wrecked the waterfront. he main street and the little squares off it are more appealing,
though occupied by some decidedly tacky tourist gift shops Other than its excellent
museum
, the town is short on must-sees, but it's undeniably a convenient base for
outdoor activities
- most notably walking. Several cruises leave from the town pier
every day, offering the chance to spot the marine life of Loch Linnhe, which includes
seals and seabirds. Shops rent out kayaks and mountain bikes for independent
exploration of the surrounding area, and local guides run mountaineering courses (in
summer and winter) on the slopes of nearby Munros.
West Highland Museum
Cameron Square, just off the High Street • March, Nov & Dec Mon-Sat 10am-4pm; April-Oct Mon-Sat 10am-5pm • Free •
T
01397 702169,
W
westhighlandmuseum.org.uk
Collections at the splendid and idiosyncratic
West Highland Museum
cover virtually
every aspect of Highland life and the presentation is traditional, but very well done,
