Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
It was in Ballater that Queen Victoria first arrived in Deeside by train from Aberdeen
back in 1848; she wouldn't allow a station to be built any closer to Balmoral, eight
miles further west. Although the line has long been closed, the town's rather self-
important royalism is much in evidence at the restored train station in the centre. he
local shops that supply Balmoral with groceries and household basics also flaunt their
connections, with oversized “By Appointment” crests.
If you prefer to discover the fresh air and natural beauty that Victoria came to love so
much, you'll find Ballater an excellent base for local walks and outdoor activities . here
are numerous hikes from Loch Muik (pronounced “mick”), nine miles southwest of
town, including the Capel Mounth drovers' route over the mountains to Glen Doll (see
p.360), and a well-worn but strenuous all-day trek up and around Lochnagar (3789ft),
the mountain much painted and written about by the current Prince of Wales.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
10
BALLATER
By bus Buses from Banchory and Braemar stop at the
northern end of Golf Road, near the A93.
Destinations Aboyne (hourly; 20min); Banchory (hourly;
40min); Braemar (9 daily; 35min).
INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES
Tourist o ce In the renovated former train station on
Station Square (daily: July-Aug 10am-6pm; Sept-June
10am-5pm; T 01339 755306).
Bike rental Good-quality bikes, including mountain bikes
and tandems, can be rented from Cycle Highlands ( T 01339
755864, W www.cyclehighlands.com) from £18/day at
13-15 Victoria Road.
ACCOMMODATION
Auld Kirk T 01339 755762, W theauldkirk.co.uk. As the
name suggests, this pleasingly unorthodox B&B is based in
a renovated church. All of the rooms are upst airs, le aving the
ground floor free for a licensed lounge area. £120
Ballater Caravan Park South of Anderson Road,
close to the River Dee T 01339 755727. Large
campsite down by the water that mostly attracts touring
caravans - tents are welcome too, though, and there are
laundry and shower facilities. Easter to Oct only.
£13.50 /pitch
Deeside Hotel Just west of the centre at 45 Braemar
Road T 01339 755420, W deesidehotel.co.uk.
Welcoming nineteenth-century house with relatively
expensive doubles and twins, all of which are en suite. The
bar downstairs is stacked full of whisky and bottled ales,
and ther e's also a restaurant in the large conservatory out
the back. £110
Habitat @ Ballater Bridge Square T 01339 753752,
W habitat-at-ballater.com. Excellent and well-equipped
hostel tucked away off the main road. Choose between a
bunk b ed w ith its o wn lo cker, or one of the private rooms.
Dorms £20 ; doubles £50
EATING AND DRINKING
Barrel Lounge 6 Church Square T 01339 755488,
W crannach.com If you fancy a wee dram with the locals,
pop into this pub on the main green. There's an open fire
and the TV's usually on in the corner. Mon-Wed & Sun
11am-midnight, Thurs-Sat 11am-1am.
Crannach Bakery A couple of miles east of Ballater at
Cambus O'May T 01339 755126, W crannach.com. A
cultured spot offering good coffees, snacks and light meals,
as well as superb cakes (around £1.50) and bread from its
in-house organic bakery.
Rocksalt and Snails 2 Bridge Street. The pick of
Ballater's cafés, selling cupcakes, sharing platters and
light bites, including veggie options like goat's cheese in
a sweet chilli sauce (£6.50 with bread). Mon-Wed &
Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs-Sat 10am-10pm.
Balmoral Castle and around
Eight miles west of Ballater, off the A93 • April-July daily 10am-5pm • £10; audio tour included in admission price (additional £5 deposit
required per handset); Land Rover safari £60/person for 3hr (minimum two people) • T 01339 742534, W balmoralcastle.com
Originally a sixteenth-century tower house built for the powerful Gordon family,
Balmoral Castle has been a royal residence since 1852, when it was converted to the
Scottish Baronial mansion that stands today. he royal family traditionally spend
their summer holidays here each August, but despite its fame it can be something of
 
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