Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE FIFE COASTAL PATH
Taking in the East Neuk villages, The Fife Coastal Path ( W fifecoastalpath.co.uk) follows the
shoreline for 117 miles between the Forth and Tay bridges, with useful bus services covering some
sections. To sample Fife's remoter seafront try the five-mile tranche between Crail and Kingsbarns
rounding the headland of Fife Ness. Buses between St Andrews and Crail stop at Kingsbarns from
where the path is well signposted. Another interesting section is from St Andrews south to
Boarhills, just past the town's golf courses. It's an easy three-mile stretch passing by rocky bays
where you'll see the Rock and Spindle, a twisting volcanic sea stack by the water's edge.
houses huddle round stone-built harbours in groupings that are fallen upon with joy by
artists and photographers. heir Flemish-influenced crow-stepped gables and red
pantiled roofs indicate a history of strong trading links with the Low Countries.
Inland, gently rolling hills provide some of the best farmland in Scotland, with quiet
country lanes more redolent of parts of southern England than north of the border
although, not surprisingly, the area is dotted with windy golf courses .
Well patronized by holiday-makers and weekenders from the central belt, the East
Neuk is particularly known for its arts and crafts and good food; the restaurants are
well known for serving fresh seafood, often complemented by produce from the fertile
Fife farmland.
Crail
CRAIL is the archetypally photogenic East Neuk fishing village, its maze of rough
cobbled streets leading steeply down to a tiny stone-built harbour surrounded by
piles of lobster creels, with fishermen's cottages tucked into every nook and cranny in
the cliff. Beyond the harbour is a sand beach, and above are perched the grander
merchants' houses, as well as the twelfth-century church, where John Knox
(see p.68) once delivered a damning sermon rallying against the local fishermen for
working on Sundays.
he village still has a working harbour, and if the boats have been out you can often
buy fresh lobster and crab cooked to order from a small wooden shack right on the
harbour edge.
8
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
CRAIL
By bus Stopping on the High St, bus #95 runs hourly to St
Andrews (25min) and Leven (for bus connection to
Edinburgh; 1hr).
Tourist o ce The tourist o ce doubles with the Crail
Museum and Heritage Centre (62 Marketgate; June-Sept
Mon-Sat 11am-4pm, Sun 1-4pm; T 01333 450869,
wcrailmuseum.org.uk) as a free village museum with
displays on the village's close ties to the sea, farming and
golf, as well as the local contribution to war efforts.
ACCOMMODATION
The Hazelton 29 Marketgate North T 01333 450250,
W thehazelton.co.uk. A pleasant and reasonably priced
B&B peacefully located just off the High St. Rooms are well
proportioned with high ceilings, en-suite shower room s and
a hospitality tray that includes home-made shortbread. £75
The Sauchope Links Park Balcomie Rd, on Crail's
eastern fringe T 01333 450460, W largoleisure.co.uk.
A very pleasant campsite on the coast with caravans,
lodges and more basic micro-lodges for rent as well as the
usual pitches. There's a grocery shop on site and recreation
facilities include a h eated pool (open Ju ne- Sept) and a
games room. Pitches £21 ; micro-lodges £42
EATING AND DRINKING
With a notable lack of places to sit down and eat, particularly in comparison with what's on offer elsewhere in the East
Neuk, the village's businesses cater mostly for day-trippers. It's still possible to enjoy a good cooked lunch, usually involving
seafood, but in the evening you'll be restricted to bar meals at one of the hotels.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP FORTH RAIL BRIDGE P.315 ; PITTENWEEM P.313 ; FALKLAND PALACE P.314 >
 
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