Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
GEORGE ORWELL ON JURA
In April 1946, Eric Blair (better known by his pen name of
George Orwell
), intending to give
himself “six months' quiet” in which to complete his latest novel, moved to a remote farmhouse
called
Barnhill
, at the northern end of Jura, which he had visited for the first time the previous
year. He appears to have relished the challenge of a spartan existence here with his adopted
3-year-old son Richard, and later his sister Avril; fishing almost every night, shooting rabbits,
laying lobster pots and even attempting a little farming. The book Orwell was writing, under
the working title
The Last Man in Europe
, was to become
1984
(the title was arrived at by simply
reversing the last two digits of the year in which it was finished - 1948). During his time on
Jura, however, Orwell was suffering badly from tuberculosis, and eventually he was forced to
return to London, where he died in January 1950.
Barnhill, 23 miles north of Craighouse, is as remote today as it was in Orwell's day. The road
deteriorates rapidly beyond Lealt, where vehicles must be left, leaving pilgrims a four-mile walk
to the house itself. Alternatively, the Richardsons of Kinauachdrachd (
T
07899 912116) can
organize a taxi and guided walk, and also run a bunkhouse. Orwell wrote most of the book in
the bedroom (top left window as you look at the house); the place is now a self-catering
cottage (
T
01786 850274). If you're keen on making the journey out to Barnhill, you might as
well combine it with a trip to the nearby
Corryvreckan Whirlpool
, which lies between Jura
and Scarba, to the north. Orwell nearly drowned in the whirlpool during a fishing trip in
August 1947, along with his three companions (including Richard): the outboard motor was
washed away, and they had to row to a nearby island and wait for several hours before being
rescued by a passing fisherman.
6
appears depends on the tide and wind, but there's a potential tidal flow of over eight
knots, which, when accompanied by gale force winds, can create standing waves up to
15ft high. Inevitably there are numerous legends about the place - known as
coire
bhreacain
(speckled cauldron) in Gaelic - concerning
Cailleach
(Hag), the Celtic storm
goddess. From the land, the best place from which to view it is Carraig Mhor on the
northern tip of Jura.
ARRIVAL AND TOURS
ISLE OF JURA
By ferry
The Feolin ferry from Port Askaig will not run if
there's a strong northerly or southerly wind, so bring your
toothbrush if you're coming for a day-trip. Very occasionally
the Jura minibus
(
T
01496 820314) meets the car ferry
from Port Askaig - phone ahead to check times.
Destinations
Port Askaig (Mon-Sat hourly, Sun 7 daily;
5min).
By passenger ferry
Between April and September,
there's also a passenger ferry service (
T
07768 450000,
W
jurapassengerferry.com) from Tayvallich, on the Argyll
mainland, to Craighouse.
CORRYVRECKAN WHIRLPOOL
Boat tours
If you're interested in taking a boat trip to
Scarba, Corryvreckan or the nearby Garvellach islands,
contact Sea.fari (
T
01852 300003,
W
seafari.co.uk), based
at Easdale; or Craignish Cruises (
T
07747 023038,
W
craignishcruises.co.uk), in Ardfern.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
The Antlers
100m north of the distillery
T
01496
820123.
Unlicensed bistro restaurant that serves up
burgers, sandwiches and salads for lunch, and beautifully
presented Jura lamb (
£
14.95), pork and salmon in the
evening.
Tues-Sun noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm.
Jura Hotel
Craighouse
T
01496 820243
,
W
jurahotel.
co.uk.
The island's one and only hotel is not much to look at
from the outside, but it's warm and friendly within, and
centre of the island's social scene. The hotel does the usual
bar meals, and has a shower block and laundry facilities
round the back for those who wish to
camp in the hotel
gardens, whi
ch
is free (showers
£
1).
Bar: daily
11am-11pm.
£95
Sealladh na Mara
Four miles north of Craighouse
T
01496 820349,
W
isleojura.net.
A modern crofthouse
with just two rooms, both of which have stunning views;
guests are also free t
o a
vail themselves of the adjoining
lounge/dining room.
£76
