Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Kintyre's bleak but often beautiful
west coast
ranks among the most exposed stretches
of coastline in Argyll. Atlantic breakers pound the rocky shoreline, while the persistent
westerly wind forces the trees against the hillside. However, when the weather's fine and
the wind not too fierce, there are numerous deserted sandy beaches to enjoy, with great
views over to Gigha, Islay, Jura and even Ireland. By way of contrast, the
east coast
of
Kintyre is gentler than the west, sheltered from the Atlantic winds and in parts
strikingly beautiful, with stunning views across to Arran.
6
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
KINTYRE
By plane
Campbeltown has an airport, with flights to and
from Glasgow, which is only 40 miles away by air, compared
to over 120 miles by road.
By bus
There are regular daily buses from Glasgow to
Campbeltown, via Tarbert and the west coast. Note that the
bus service from Campbeltown only reaches as far as the
fishing village of Carradale, some thirteen miles up the coast.
By ferry
Kintyre is well served with ferries: the main
port is at Kennacraig, five miles south of Tarbert on the
west coast, with ferries serving Port Askaig and Port
Ellen on Islay. There are also ferries from Tarbert to
Portavadie on the Cowal peninsula, from Claonaig to
Lochranza on Arran, and a summer-only one from
Campbeltown to Ardrossan.
Tarbert
A distinctive rocket-like church steeple heralds the fishing port of
TARBERT
(in Gaelic
An Tairbeart
, meaning “isthmus”), sheltering an attractive little bay backed by rugged
hills. Tarbert's
herring industry
was mentioned in the Annals of Ulster as far back as
836 AD, though right now the local fishing industry is down to its lowest level ever.
Ironically, it was local Tarbert fishermen, who, in the 1830s, pioneered the method of
herring fishing known as trawling, seining or ring-netting, which eventually wiped out
the Loch Fyne herring stocks.
Tourism
is now an increasingly important source of income, and though
there's nothing really of substance to see in Tarbert itself, it's a good hub, with
excellent transport links, a decent stock of accommodation, and some even
better seafood restaurants. Moreover, it stages two prestigious annual events; the
Scottish Series yacht races in late May, and the Tarbert Seafood Festival in early
July when traditional boats also hit town. Tarbert is also the starting point of
the
Kintyre Way
, an 89-mile walk that zigzags its way down the peninsula
to Southend.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
TARBERT
By bus
Buses stop in the centre of town on Campbeltown
Road and Barmore Road.
Destinations
Campbeltown (5 daily; 1hr 15min); Claonaig
(Mon-Sat 3 daily; 30min); Glasgow (5 daily; 3hr 15min);
Kennacraig (3-6 daily; 15min); Kilberry (2 daily on
schooldays; 40min); Skipness (Mon-Sat 3 daily; 35min);
Tayinloan (3-6 daily; 30min).
By ferry
The ferry terminal is on Pier Road, a 10min walk
along Harbour Street.
Destinations
Portavadie (hourly; 25min).
INFORMATION
Tourist o
ce
Harbour Street (April-June, Sept & Oct
Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 11am-5pm; July & Aug
Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 10am-5pm;
T
01880 820429,
W
kintyreway.com).
ACCOMMODATION
Ì
Knap Guest House
Campbeltown Road
T
01880
820015,
W
knapguesthouse.co.uk.
Handsome Victorian
townhouse with four pristine rooms leading off a beautifully
appointed lounge; each room manifests a curious mixture of
traditional Scottish and Asian furnishings, which somehow
works. A little tricky to find as t
here
's no sign, it's next to the
Woods Financial Services shop.
£70
Struan House
Harbour Street
T
01880 820190,
W
struan.biz.
Built in 1846 as a small hotel, this is now
a charming six-roomed guesthouse with bespoke
furnishings, grand wooden bedsteads, and some sweet
little touches lik
e be
dside lamps, books and wall-
mounted artwork.
£75
