Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ST COLUMBA AND IONA
Legend has it that St Columba (Colum Cille), born in Donegal some time around 521, was a
direct descendant of the semi-legendary Irish king, Niall of the Nine Hostages. A scholar and
soldier priest, who founded numerous monasteries in Ireland, he is thought to have become
involved in a bloody dispute with the king when he refused to hand over a copy of St Jerome's
Psalter, copied illegally from the original owned by St Finian of Moville. This, in turn, provoked
the Battle of Cúl Drebene (Cooldrumman) - also known as the Battle of the Book - at
which Columba's forces won, though with the loss of over 3000 lives.
The story goes that, repenting this bloodshed, Columba went into exile with twelve other
monks, eventually settling on Iona in 563, allegedly because it was the first island he
encountered from which he couldn't see his homeland. The bottom line, however, is that we
know very little about Columba, though he undoubtedly became something of a cult figure
after his death in 597. He was posthumously credited with miraculous feats such as
defeating the Loch Ness monster - it only had to hear his voice and it recoiled in terror
- and casting out snakes (and, some say, frogs) from the island. He is also famously alleged
to have banned women and cows from Iona, exiling them to Eilean nam Ban (Woman's
Island), just north of Fionnphort, for, as he believed, “Where there is a cow there is a woman,
and where there is a woman there is mischief”.
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sanitation, the cloisters were placed, contrary to the norm, on the north side of the
church (where running water was available); entirely reconstructed in the late
1950s, they now shelter lots of medieval grave slabs.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
ISLE OF IONA
By ferry The CalMac passenger ferry from Fionnphort is very
frequent (£4.95 return, bicycles free), and takes just 10min.
Destinations Fionnphort (daily, every 30min in summer;
less frequent in winter; 5min).
GETTING AROUND
By taxi Believe it or not, there is a taxi on the island
( T 07810 325990).
Bike rental Visitors are not allowed to bring cars onto the
island, but bikes can be rented from the Finlay Ross general
store, just up from the jetty (£8/day) and the Seaview
guesthouse in Fionnphort.
INFORMATION AND TOURS
Website W isle-of-iona.com. There's no tourist o ce on
Iona, but there is a useful information board just up from
the jetty.
Boat tours Mark Jardine's Alternative Boat Hire
( T 01681 700537, W boattripsiona.com), based on Iona,
takes the lovely wooden gaff-rigged sailing boat Birthe
Marie on short trips to some of the less-visited spots
around the Sound of Iona and Erraid (Easter-Oct; 3hr trip
£25, bookings advised). There are also whale-watching
and wildlife outings with Volante (£40 for 3.5hr; T 01681
700362, W volanteiona.com).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Argyll T 01681 700334, W argyllhoteliona.co.uk. Inviting,
stone-built hotel in the village's terrace of cottages
overlooking the Sound of Iona, with sixteen sweet, though
somewhat boxy, rooms spread throughout a maze of
corri dors. It is way overpriced, but it can afford to be. Feb-
Nov. £140
Cnoc-Oran Camping T 01681 700112,
W ionacampsite.co.uk. Turn left at the jetty and it's a
twenty-minute walk to this super little campsite, which
has a couple of showers and toilets, fi repits and BBQs. You
can also rent tents and sleeping bags. £6.50 /person
Iona Hostel Lagandorain; follow the road past the
abbey for half a mile T 01681 700781, W ionahostel
.co.uk. Terrific hostel located to the north of the island,
with impeccable green credentials; rooms with bunks sleep
two to six people, and there's a main living space filled with
lovely wooden furniture and a wood-bur ning sto ve that
has views out to the Treshnish Isles. Dorms £19.50
Martyr's Bay Restaurant T 01681 700382. A self-
service canteen by day, a fully-fledged restaurant come
evening; either way, the tourist hordes invariably pack this
place out for steaks and seafood. Lunch meals like haddock
and chips (£9.95) and baked potato with haggis are worth
a punt too. Daily 11am-11pm.
 
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