Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
modern add-on, but if the coast is clear the attendant (attired in a neat burgundy
waistcoat) will allow ladies a tour of the gents; it's clad in colourfully painted ceramic
tiles and mosaics, and stars an impressive central stand with six urinals - never has the
call of nature seemed so attractive.
Rothesay Castle
Castle Hill St • April-Sept daily 9.30am-5.30pm; Oct-March Mon-Wed, Sat & Sun 9.30am-4.30pm • £4.50; HS • T 01700 502691
Rothesay boasts the militarily useless, but architecturally impressive, moated ruins of
Rothesay Castle , hidden amid the town's backstreets. Built around the twelfth century,
it was twice captured by the Norwegians, firstly in 1230, then in 1263; such
vulnerability was the reasoning behind the unusual, almost circular, curtain wall, with
its four big drum towers, only one of which remains fully intact. Look upwards inside
the tower and you'll see a superbly preserved dovecot (with nesting boxes), which was a
seventeenth-century addition. he wall was actually heightened in the early sixteenth
century - the line is clearly identifiable in the stonework; the earlier, lower half
comprises light ashlar, the upper half is darker and of rougher hew.
6
Ascog Hall Gardens
Ascog • Easter-Oct Wed-Sun 10am-5pm • £4 • T 01700 504555
A mile or so east of Rothesay along the coastal road is the Ascog Hall Gardens , which is
chiefly notable for its highly unusual Victorian fernery , a beautiful, dank place, sunk into
the ground, and featuring ferns from all over the world. his one fairly recently replaced
the original fernery dating from around 1870, its red, weathered sandstone walls, shade
and humidity ideal conditions for cultivating these plants. he gardens themselves are
likeably dishevelled, and feature species from Europe, Asia and Oceania; the best time to
visit is spring when azaleas, tulips and blue poppies are in full bloom.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
ROTHESAY
By ferry The CalMac terminal is smack bang in the middle
of the Esplanade.
Destinations Wemyss Bay (every 45min; 30min).
By bus The main point for bus departures and arrivals is
Guildford Square, opposite the ferry terminal.
Destinations Kilchattan Bay (Mon-Sat hourly, 3 on Sun;
30min); Mount Stuart (Mon-Sat hourly; 15min);
Rhubodach (Mon-Fri 2-3 daily; 20min).
INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES
Tourist o ce Inside the Winter Gardens on Victoria Street
(daily 9.30am-5pm; T 01700 502151, W visitbute.com).
Also located here is the “Discovery Centre”, which has some
well-presented displays on the life and times of Bute.
Bike hire The Bike Shed, 23-25 East Princes St (Mon-Sat
9.30am-5.30pm; T 01700 505515, W thebikeshed.org.
uk) has great-value bike hire (£10/day) and also does
repairs and servicing.
ACCOMMODATION
Boat House 15 Battery Place T 01700 502696,
W theboathouse-bute.co.uk. Chic and utterly
contemporary B&B with ten sparkling rooms offering all
the modern conveniences you could wish for, including
iPod docks. The lounge area is eq uall y inviting, with a DVD
player and stereo for guests' use. £80
Bute Backpackers 36 Argyle St T 01700 501876.
Conveniently located five minutes' walk along the seafront
towards Port Bannatyne, the island's sole hostel offers
reasonably furnished three- to six-bed rooms. Breakfast is
not in clude d but there's a large kitchen for general use.
Dorms £20
Cannon House Battery Place T 01700 502819 ,
W cannonhousehotel.co.uk. A really elegant Georgian
building close to the pier, with an ever-so-slightly old-
fashioned atmosphere and seven extremely comfortable
(if slig htly too floral) rooms, though not all possess sea
views. £70
EATING AND DRINKING
No.29 29 Gallowgate T 01700 500685, W 29bute.com.
Seared loin of tuna with tomato compote, samphire grass
and citrus foam (£17.95) gives you some idea of what to
expect from Rothesay's most refined restaurant, complete
with a smart, all-grey interior and impeccably mannered
staff. Mon-Sat 6-10pm, Sun 1-10pm.
 
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