Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
islands, it's essential that you book both your outward and
return journeys as early as possible, as the ferries get
booked up early, especially in summer.
By ferry
CalMac (
T
0800 066 5000,
W
calmac.co.uk)
operates a comprehensive timetable of ferries between the
islands, though this is reduced during the winter months;
information on individual ferry crossings is given in the
relevant town accounts.
Cowal
he claw-shaped
COWAL
peninsula, formed by Loch Fyne and Loch Long, has been a
popular destination since the nineteenth century when rapid steamer connections
brought hordes of Glaswegian holiday-makers to its shores. It's still quickest to reach
Cowal by ferry across the Clyde - by car, it's a long, though exhilarating, drive through
some rich Highland scenery in order to reach the same spot.
Beyond the old-fashioned coastal towns such as
Dunoon
, the largest settlement in the
area, the Cowal landscape is extremely rich and varied, ranging from the Munros of the
north to the gentle, low-lying coastline of the southwest. One way to explore it is to
follow the 47-mile
Cowal Way
, a waymarked long-distance footpath between Portvadie
and Ardgartan. he western edge of Cowal is marked by the long, narrow Loch Fyne,
famous for both its kippers (smoked herrings) and oysters.
6
Arrochar and around
Approaching by road from Glasgow, the entry point to Cowal is
ARROCHAR
, at the
head of Loch Long. he village itself is ordinary enough, but the area has the
peninsula's most grandiose scenery, including the ambitiously named
Arrochar Alps
,
whose peaks offer some of the best climbing in Argyll: Ben Ime (3318ft) is the tallest
range, while Ben Arthur or
“The Cobbler”
(2891ft), named after the anvil-like rock
formation at its summit, is the most distinctive. If you head west from Arrochar to
Inveraray or the rest of Cowal, you can climb
Glen Croe
, a strategic hill pass whose
saddle is called - for obvious reasons -
Rest-and-be-Thankful
.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
ARROCHAR AND AROUND
By train
Arrochar and Tarbet train station is a mile or so
east of town, just off the A83 to Tarbet.
Destinations
Glasgow (Mon-Sat 4-5 daily, Sun 3 daily;
1hr 15min).
By bus
Buses stop just on the A814 near Church Road.
Destinations
Glasgow (6 daily; 1hr 10min); Inveraray (6
daily; 35min).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Ben Bheula
Succoth
T
01301 702184,
W
benbheula
.co.uk.
Set back from the head of the loch, in nearby
Succoth, this cl
ean,
three-bedroom B&B is run by a very
friendly couple.
£55
Fascadail
Church Road, Arrochar
T
01301 702344,
W
fascadail.com.
A Victorian guesthouse set within its
own grounds in the quieter southern part of the village,
with five colourfully furnished and superbly equipped
rooms. Enjoy breakfast i
n th
e dining room with glorious
views across the garden.
£75
Village Inn
Arrochar
T
01301 702279.
If you need a bite
to eat, head for the
Village Inn
, a short walk south of the
Fascadail, which has tables outside
overlooking the loch as
well as a cosy real-ale bar.
Daily 10am-midnight.
Ardkinglas Woodland Garden and House
Just off the A83, behind the village of Cairndow •
Garden
Daily dawn-dusk • £4.50 •
House
April-Oct, visits by guided tour only, every Fri
2pm • £7 •
T
01499 600261,
W
ardkinglas.com
he wonderful
Ardkinglas Woodland Garden
contains exotic rhododendrons, azaleas,
hydrangeas and a superb collection of conifers, including five so-called Champion Trees
- those deemed to be the tallest or broadest examples of their kind within Britain;
indeed, the garden is home to what is still the tallest tree in the British Isles, a Grand
Fir introduced by David Douglas in 1830 and now standing at a mighty 210ft. Look
