Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Argyll and Bute
Cut off for centuries from the rest of Scotland by the mountains and sea lochs
that characterize the region, Argyll remains remote, its scatter of offshore
islands forming part of the Inner Hebridean archipelago (the remaining
Hebrides are dealt with in Chapters 13 & 14). Geographically as well as
culturally, this is a transitional area between Highland and Lowland, boasting
a rich variety of scenery, from lush, subtropical gardens warmed by the Gulf
Stream to flat and treeless islands on the edge of the Atlantic; it's these islands
that are the real magnet here, with their magnificent wildlife, endless walking
possibilities and some of the world's finest whiskies. It's in the folds and twists
of the countryside, the interplay of land and water and the views out to the
islands that the strengths and beauties of mainland Argyll lie, though there is
also one area of man-made sights you shouldn't miss, which is the cluster of
Celtic and prehistoric relies in mid-Argyll near Kilmartin.
6
Much of mainland Argyll is comprised of remote peninsulas separated by a series of
long sea lochs. he first peninsula you come to from Glasgow is
Cowal
, cut off from the
rest of Argyll by a set of mountains including the Arrochar Alps. Nestling in one of
Cowal's sea lochs is the
Isle of Bute
, whose capital, Rothesay, is probably the most
appealing of the old Clyde steamer resorts.
Kintyre
, the long finger of land that
stretches south towards Ireland, is less visually dramatic than Cowal, though it does
provide a stepping stone for several Hebridean islands, as well as Arran (see p.171).
North of here,
Inveraray
, picturesquely set upon the shores of Loch Fyne, has a superb
jail museum to detain you, while further north still,
Oban
is comfortably the largest
town in Argyll, as well as its chief ferry port.
Of the islands covered in this chapter, mountainous
Mull
is the most visited, though it
is large enough to absorb the crowds, many of whom are only passing through en route
to the tiny isle of
Iona
, a centre of Christian culture since the sixth century, or to visit
Tobermory
, the island's impossibly picturesque port (aka “Balamory”).
Islay
, best
known for its distinctive malt whiskies, is fairly quiet even in the height of summer, as
is neighbouring
Jura
, which offers excellent walking opportunities. And, for those
seeking further solitude, there's the island of
Colonsay
, with its beautiful golden sands,
and the windswept islands of
Tiree
and
Coll
, which also have great beaches and enjoy
more sunny days than anywhere else in Scotland.
ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND
ARGYLL AND BUTE
By train
The one main train line in the region runs from
Glasgow up to Oban, though it takes in very few places
covered in this chapter.
By bus
Buses serve most major mainland settlements,
with fairly regular services on weekdays, though usually a
much reduced service at weekends. There's a good service
from Glasgow down to Campbeltown via Arrochar, Inverary
and Tarbert. Most of the islands have at least a handful of
daily buses too.
By car
If you're planning to take a car across to one of the
Loch Fyne Oyster Bar and Shop
p.227
Wildlife-watching trips from
Tobermory
p.241
St Columba and Iona
p.250
The Scottish Beaver Trial
p.259
Islay Whisky distilleries
p.267
George Orwell on Jura
p.273
