Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the continent by a narrow channel filled with many stones, by which
as by a staircase one can cross the channel with dry feet when the sea
is calm; but when the sea is rough waves surround the four rocks into
which I said the reef is divided. Three of these are low and more or
less submerged, but the middle one is higher than the European rock,
sloping up to an acute point and roundish right up to its summit;
it is splashed by the waves but not submerged and is everywhere
precipitous and straight.”
The bay to the south of Yum Burnu is now called Kabakoz
Limanı, the Harbour of the Wild Walnuts; in Gyllius' time it was
known as the Bay of Haghios Sideros (that is, St. Anchor - the half-
remembered story of the Argonautic anchor had given rise in the
minds of the medieval Greeks to an apocryphal holy man!). On
the south this bay is bounded by a point not named by Gyllius but
nowadays called Anadolu Feneri Burnu, after the lighthouse ( fener)
on the promontory above. Below the lighthouse a village of the same
name clings perilously to the clif. Just south of this is the bay which
Gyllius calls Ampelodes, now Çakal Limanı, the Bay of Jackals,
fringed by savage and rocky precipices. The next promontory beyond
this, unnamed by Gyllius, is now called Poyraz Burnu. (In Turkish
Poyraz is the fierce north-east wind which howls down the Bosphorus
in winter; its name is a corruption of Boreas, the Greek god of the
north wind.) On Poyraz Burnu, just opposite Garipçe and like it
strangely shaped, is a fortress built in 1773 by the Baron de Tott,
and another small village. The long sandy beach to the south is now
known as Poyraz Bay; the Greeks of Gyllius' time called it Dios Sacra,
“because, I suppose, there was once an altar here either of Jove or of
Neptune, the other Jove.” This is one of the most pleasant places on
the Bosphorus to swim and spend a leisurely afternoon. This bay is
bounded on the south by Fil Burnu, Elephant Point, called in Gyllius'
time Coracium, Rooky, “because the Greeks of this age say that ravens
are wont to build their nests there.” The long stretch of concave coast
between here and Anadolu Kavağı is hardly to be described as a bay,
so rugged and precipitous is it. It is now called Keçili Liman, Goats'
Bay, and we have seen not only goats and sheep but even cows grazing
on its rather barren slopes.
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