Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
At Yeniköy begins the long line of summer embassies with their
beautiful gardens and parks: first that of Austria, then a little farther
on at the small village of Kalender that of Germany; still farther on at
Tarabya a succession of them: England, burnt down in 1911; France,
burnt in 1923; Italy, rebuilt in 1906; but all still with lovely parks.
When towards the beginning of the nineteenth century the seashore
came to be preferred to an inland site, the summer embassies moved
from the village of Belgrad in the midst of the forest of that name to
Tarabya and acquired or were granted land by various sultans. The
village retains in a slightly modified form its Greek name Therepeia
(cure, healing) given by the Patriarch Atticus (r. 406-25) from
its salubrious climate, the older name having been Pharmakeus,
the Poisoner, because Medea had there thrown away her poison.
The waterfront in Tarabya is lined with excellent but expensive
restaurants where well-of Stamboullus come to watch one another
eat. The village once had one of the largest Greek communities on
the Bosphorus and there are still three Greek churches there, though
services are held there only on the feast days of the saints to whom
they are dedicated.
BÜYÜKDERE AND THE BELGRAD FOREST
From Tarabya the shore curves almost directly westward and one
comes in a short distance to Kireçburnu (Lime Point), anciently
known as Kleidai tou Pontou, Keys of the Pontus, because from here
one can see directly into the Black Sea. A kilometre or so beyond
this, at the end of the westward reach of the Bosphorus, stands the
large village of Büyükdere at the north end of a wide bay; here are
the summer embassies of Russia and Spain. Its Turkish name means
Large Valley, while one of its older Greek names is Kalos Agros, the
Beautiful Meadow. It is indeed a very lovely and fertile valley with fine
old trees through which a road leads into the Belgrad Forest. In the
midst of this forest once stood the village of Belgrad, made famous
by the encomiums of Lady Mary Wortley Montague. The village was
founded in 1521 by Süleyman the Magnificent after his conquest of
the city of Belgrade, when he transported a certain number of the
inhabitants of that city and settled them here in order to look after
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