Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
leaves, such as we have seen nowhere else. In the precinct is a very
fine şadırvan with a huge witch's cap for a roof, and a tiny medrese
triangular in shape sloping headlong down hill. Just outside the
precinct is a handsome mektep, and not far of a large hamam also
belongs to the foundation.
The street outside the mosque, Çavuş Dere Caddesi, winds
downhill and in about a mile leads one back to Iskele Meydanı.
There are many interesting and pleasant excursions to be made in
the environs of Üsküdar, for, as Evliya Çelebi informs us: “Üsküdar is
surrounded on all sides with delightful walks.” These places can easily
be reached by bus or taxi from the Iskele Meydanı, or, if one is feeling
really energetic, one could stroll to them through the town none of
them is at any great distance.
CEMETERY OF KARACA AHMET
One walk for which Üsküdar is famous is that to the vast Turkish
cemetery of Karaca Ahmet which covers the hills to the south-
west towards Kadıköy. This rivals in extent and picturesqueness the
cemeteries outside the walls of Stamboul and in Eyüp. Acre after acre
is thick with cypress trees and with serried but topsy-turvy ranks of
tombstones; here and there an old suterazi or water-control tower
rivals the trees in height and gauntness. Many of the older tomb-
stones are beautifully designed and carved, usually bearing elaborate
obituary inscriptions, some of which are quite poetic and touching
and others even irreverent and amusing. The stones are topped with
representations of the headdresses of the deceased, from which we
learn their sex and station. The tombstones of the men are surmounted
with large stone turbans, whose variety exhibit the full range of the
Ottoman civil, military and religious hierarchies; here and there we
see the turban of a paşa, a dervish, a sipahi
or a eunuch. Those of the
women are decorated with floral designs in low relief and are crowned
with archaic oriental hats or draped with simple shawls, feminine
even though in stone. One could stroll for hours in this serene suburb
of the dead.
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