Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
half a century after the Conquest, having celebrated its millennium
in 1450. But then at the close of the fifteenth century the church
of St. John was converted into a mosque and the few monks who
were still resident were forced to seek shelter elsewhere. What was
left of the monastery in modern times was utterly destroyed in the
earthquake of 1894 and now not a trace remains.
Before we leave St. John's, we might read what one of the monks
of the Studion wrote in praise of it some centuries ago, apparently
in a moment of great happiness: “No barbarian looks upon my face,
no woman hears my voice. For a thousand years no useless man has
entered the monastery of the Studion, none of the female sex has
trodden its court. I dwell in a cell that is like a palace; a garden, an
olive grove and a vineyard surround me. Before me there are graceful
and luxuriant cypress trees. On one hand is the great city with its
market places and on the other the mother of churches and the
empire of the world.”
Leaving the church we turn left and follow the winding path which
leads us around to the south-eastern corner of its outer precincts.
Here, at the edge of a vacant field, we find a small shed which gives
access to a covered cistern which was once part of the Studion. It
is quite impressive, containing 23 granite columns with handsome
Corinthian capitals. Beside it is an ayazma , or holy well, with two
columns.
After leaving the cistern we continue on in the same direction
until we arrive at the railway line. There we turn left and follow the
railway as far as the first underpass, from which a path leads us out to
the sea-walls. There we turn right and in a few steps come to a portal
called Narlı Kapı, the ancient Pomegranate Gate, whence a path takes
us out to the Marmara road. Here we can stroll back towards town
along the shore, enjoying a splendid view of the Stamboul skyline.
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