Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
to that façade. On the west, in our opinion, he was not so successful.
Here, in order to preserve the unity of the courtyard and the grandeur
of the western façade, he chose to place the buttresses wholly within
the building. Again he masked them with galleries, but in this case
the device was inadequate. The great west portal, instead of being
impressive as it ought, seems squeezed tight by the deep projection of
the buttresses, which moreover not only throw it into impenetrable
shadow, but also abut in an unpleasing way on the two small domes
on which the western semidome reposes. It can be said that Sinan
rarely quite succeeded with the interior of his west walls; in almost
every case, even in the smaller mosques, there is a tendency to squeeze
the portal. But his solution of the main problem was masterly.
The general efect of the interior is of a severely simple grandeur.
The east wall only is enlivened by some touches of colour; here the
lovely stained-glass windows are by the glazier known as Sarhoş
(the Drunkard) Ibrahim; the tiles, used with great restraint, are the
earliest known examples of the new techniques of the Iznik kilns, leaf
and flower motifs in turquoise, deep blue and red on a pure white
ground. The mihrab and mimber in Proconnesian marble are of great
simplicity and distinction, as is also the woodwork, inlaid with ivory
and mother-of-pearl, of the doors, window shutters and the kürsü, or
preacher's chair. Throughout the building the inscriptions are by the
most famous of Ottoman calligraphers, Ahmet Karahisarı, and his
pupil Hasan Çelebi.
THE TÜRBES OF SÜLEYMAN AND HASEKİ HÜRREM
Leaving by the north door of the mosque, we find ourselves on the
terrace overlooking the Golden Horn. Turning right, we walk around
the mosque so as to enter the walled garden behind it, where stand
the türbes of Süleyman and Haseki Hürrem. Süleyman's, as is fitting,
is the largest and grandest of Sinan's türbes, although not quite the
most beautiful. Octagonal in form, it is surrounded by a pretty porch
on columns. This türbe, like those at Haghia Sophia and elsewhere,
has a double dome, with the inner dome supported by columns
in the interior. This inner dome preserves its gorgeous painting in
wine-red, black and gold. The walls of the interior are covered with
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