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the most prominent items on display are preserved cobras—kept in large glass jars. I'd prefer not to acci-
dentally ingest a plate of snake fried rice.
It's late afternoon when we hit the enormous traffic jam encircling Hanoi. Our bus crawls through the
city streets for a full hour, a river of motorbikes flowing around us. At last we arrive downtown, hoist on
our packs, and start walking to our hotel. Time to meet our bike tour group. We're no longer traveling on
our own.
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