Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
INTRODUCTION
Lustrous mohair is produced by one breed of goat, the
Angora (
Capra hircus aegagrus
), whereas many different
breeds produce cashmere. The word “mohair” is derived
from the Arabic word “Mukhayar” translated variably as
“best of selected fl eece, ” “ select choice, ” “ silky goatskin
cloth, ” “ cloth of bright goat hair, ” and “ hair cloth ” (Hunter
and Hunter, 2001). Most mohair is white although produc-
tion of colored mohair for the handcraft sector is increas-
ing, particularly in the U.S. Natural cashmere colors
include white, pastel browns and grays, and black. In the
context of this chapter, pashmina means simply fi ne quality
cashmere grown in India. When dairy, meat, or cashmere
goats are bred to Angora goats, a crossbred goat results
that grows a fl eece that is usually white and is called cash-
gora. Small quantities of this intermediate type of fi ber and
goat guard hair also fi nd their way into commercial chan-
nels. These fi bers and goatskin technology are described
in short sections of this chapter.
Roman Emperor Charles V in 1554. Later shipments fol-
lowed to South Africa (1838), the U.S. (1849), Australia
(1850s and 1860s), the U.K. (1881), and subsequently
numerous other countries (Shelton, 1993). Mohair produc-
tion fl ourished in South Africa (Van der Westhuysen et al.,
1988) and the U.S. typically under extensive, low-input
conditions. In 1909, 1.34 million Angora goats were shorn
in Texas (Figure 15.1). The population increased to 4.61
million by 1965 but subsequently declined to the present
day 170,000, comprising 81% of the national Angora goat
herd. The year 1965 was also the peak of mohair produc-
tion in Texas with 14.3 million kg being clipped. In recent
years, South African mohair production peaked in 1988
with 12.2 million kg (Table 15.1). By 2007, the amount
had declined to 3.0 million kg. Meanwhile, production in
Turkey declined from about 4 million kg/yr in the 1970s
to 0.35 million kg/yr in 2007.
The original Turkish Angora goats were described as
small, refi ned, and delicate; annually they produced 1-2 kg
of mohair in ringlets 20-25 cm in length. By contrast,
present-day female Angora goats maintained under rela-
tively harsh West Texas range conditions have body
weights of 35 kg (range 30-60 kg) and produce about 2 kg
(range 1.5 - 4 kg) of mohair every 6 months (Table 15.2 ).
Males are often developed and maintained on a higher
plane of nutrition to ensure they are in good condition at
breeding time. Their body weights average about 70 kg
(range 45 - 90 kg), and they typically produce 6 kg (range
4 - 9 kg) of mohair every 6 months.
THE ANGORA GOAT
The Angora goat probably originated in the Asian
Himalayas or highlands of Tibet and arrived in Turkey
with migrating pastoral tribes during the 11th century. For
the next eight centuries, the breed was maintained and
developed on the Turkish plains close to Ankara, from
which the name of the goat was derived. The fi rst recorded
exportation of Angora goats out of Turkey was to the Holy
Figure 15.1
Texas mohair
production, total value, selling
price, federal support payment,
1906-2006. Source: National
Agricultural Statistics Service (units
converted by author).
