Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Lesser deities
Among the many lesser deities or
dewi
(
dewa
if male) are
Dewi Sri
, the goddess of rice, wor-
shipped at tiny shrines in the paddy fields and celebrated at significant stages throughout the
agricultural year; and
Dewi Danu
(more formally known as Ida Batara Dewi Ulun Danu), the
goddess of the crater lakes - honoured with temples at lakes Bratan, Batur and Tamblingan,
and so important to rice growers as a source of vital irrigation that annual pilgrimages are
made to all three temples.
The demons
Demons
also come in a variety of manifestations. The forces of evil are personified by a
cast of
bhuta
and
kala
, invisible goblins and ghosts who inhabit eerie, desolate places like
the temples of the dead, cemeteries, moonless seashores and dark forests. Their purpose is
to wreak havoc in the human world, causing horrible lingering illnesses and ruinous agricul-
tural and economic disasters and entering villagers' minds and turning them insane. But they
are not invincible and can be appeased with
offerings
just as the gods can - the difference
being that the offerings for these demons consist mainly of dirty, unpleasant, unattractive and
mouldy things, which are thrown on the ground, not placed respectfully on ledges and altars.
Demons are notoriously greedy, too, and so the Balinese will often waste a dash of
arak
(rice
liquor) on the ground before drinking, or drop a few grains of rice to the floor when eating.
Various other strategies are used to repel, confuse and banish the
bhuta
and
kala
. Most en-
trance gates to temples and households are guarded by fierce-looking statues and ugly de-
monic images designed to frighten off even the boldest demon. Many gateways are also
blocked by a low brick wall, an
aling-aling
, as demons can only walk in straight lines, and so
won't be able to zigzag around it.
Bhuta
and
kala
get particular pleasure from entering a per-
son's body via their various orifices, so certain temples (especially in the north) have covered
their walls in pornographic carvings, the theory being that the demons will have so much fun
penetrating the carved simulation orifices on the outside walls that they won't bother to try
their luck further inside the temple compound.
The leyak
In addition to the unseen
bhuta
and
kala
, there are the
leyak
, or witches, who take highly vis-
ible and creepy forms, morphing into headless chickens, bald-headed giants, monkeys with
rows of shiny gold teeth, fireballs and riderless motorbikes.
Leyak
can transform themselves
effortlessly, and most assume the human form during the daytime, leading outwardly nor-
mal lives. Only at night do they release their dark spirits to wreak havoc on unsuspecting is-
landers, while their human shell remains innocently asleep in bed. Even in their human form,
leyak
cannot be killed with knives or poisons, but they can be controlled by harnessing the
white magic practised by shamanic
balian
(traditional healers) and priests.
