Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Rp6500/foot passenger; Rp19,000/motorbike under 500cc; Rp124,000/car. Note nearly all
car-rental agencies prohibit their vehicles from leaving Bali. In Ketapang, the Banyuwangi
Baru train station is about 100m north of the ferry terminal for services to Surabaya, Pro-
bolinggo and Yogyakarta. The long-distance bus terminal is Sri Tanjung, 2km south of
Ketapang.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Ayam Betutu Men Tempeh
Terminal Lama 0365 61178.
Among the many warung
serving
ayam betutu
in the old bemo station, this smarter restaurant reached via steps gets
great reviews. Certainly there's more meat on its chickens - steamed with a mouth-blasting
mix of garlic, galangal, turmeric and chilli and served with extra
sambal
(Rp40,000).
Daily
9am-6pm.
Pondok Wisata Lestari
Main road, 2km south from port or 1.5km north from national park
headquarters 0365 61504.
There's no reason to overnight in town, but for anyone planning
a dawn hike this twenty-room place is the best of a poor choice. Standard rooms a
re tatty, so
it's worth paying Rp250,000 for a Deluxe - still plain but acceptable and with a/c.
Rp110,000
The north coast
It's a lovely drive east from the tip of Bali; the road tracks along a narrow strip of the
north-
west coast
for sea views on one side and mountains on the other. The terrain becomes more
interesting with sharp peaks inland as far as
Pemuteran
, a peaceful beach haven offering
plenty of opportunities for snorkelling and diving. Continue east and you'll soon reach an
even smaller hideaway at
Ume Anyar
, before the road divides: head east for
Lovina
and
Singaraja
or south for the cool, refreshing hills around
Sanda
and
Belimbing
. The north coast
also opens up a number of back roads that cut across the interior (see
The Antosari Road
)
.
Pemuteran
A Lovina before tourism took hold,
PEMUTERAN
lives a double life as a fishing village
and a holiday getaway. It remains a pleasantly low-key area, especially as the shoreside ac-
commodation seems to make an effort not to upset the village ambience. Alongside idling on
the beach - a ribbon of black and biscuit-colour sand which arcs for 1km or so - Pemuteran
is known for its
snorkelling
and
diving
. More than a dozen reefs are within easy reach of
the shore - Pemuteran has the largest shallow-reef area in Bali - and seas are calm so there's
a site to suit all abilities; indeed the number is increasing through an innovative reef-grow-
ing programme that is creating living sculptures (see
Biorock: the DIY reef
)
. The marine
life is varied, too; from turtles, giant clams and manta rays, even the very occasional whale
shark, at the larger scale down to tiny nudibranchs and glass shrimp via corals, fans, sponges
and fish such as grouper, sweetlips, pipefish, surgeonfish, triggerfish and wrasse. Most divers
