Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Javanese ixora and cempaka shrubs, and the forests of Gunung Batukaru press against the
compound's perimeters: monuments are encrusted with moss and a web of paths fans out to
shrines set in the forest. The proximity of the forest means you may see
birds
including green
woodpecker-like barbets, scarlet minivets, olive-green grey-headed flycatchers and possibly
even scarlet-headed flowerpeckers in the treetops.
Pura Luhur Batukaru is thought to have become a holy site in the eleventh century and was
later consecrated by the rajas of the kingdom of Tabanan, who made it into their state temple
and dedicated shrines to their ancestral gods. Many of the thatched
meru
inside the
inner
sanctuary
still represent a particular branch or ancestor of the Tabanan royal family. The
most important shrine, though, is a seven-tiered pagoda dedicated to Mahadewa, the god of
Gunung Batukaru. To the east of the main temple compound, a large square
pond
has been
dug to represent and honour the gods of nearby Danau Tamblingan, which lies immediately
to the north of Gunung Batukaru. Pura Luhur continues to play an important role in the lives
of Balinese Hindus. Members of local
subak
groups draw holy water from the pond for agri-
cultural ceremonies, and at the annual Galungan festivities truckloads of devotees travel long
distances to pay their respects and make offerings.
In deference to Pura Luhur's sacred status, strict
rules of admission
are posted at the en-
trance. Aside from the usual prohibitions against menstruating women and the recently be-
reaved, Batukaru also bars pregnant women and “ladies whose children have not got their
first teeth”. A stipulation against “mad ladies/gentleman” has been recently dropped.
Jatiluwih road
Toll is Rp20,000 per adult, Rp10,000 per child
About 2.5km south of Pura Luhur, a road branches east from Wongayagede towards
JATILUWIH
; it's a slow, very rough route through forest that occasionally parts for pan-
oramas over the gently sloping rice terraces. The reason you're here is the oldest and most
complex system of rice terraces on the island. Arguably the most beautiful, too - so celeb-
rated is the scenery that Jatiluwih hamlet has christened the entire area. Inevitably, it has been
designated a tourist site, which means every visitor pays a toll to drive through, and the road
now has a fair smattering of warung-homestays. Yet this is the Bali of postcards: vivid green
terraces like contour lines, lush banana trees and palms, fields of chilli peppers and tomato
plants, and farmers in pointed woven hats.
Eventually the road arrives at the
Senganan
road junction. The quickest route to the
north and south coasts is the northeast (left) fork that feeds into the main Denpas-
ar-Bedugul-Singaraja artery at Pacung. For a slower, scenic route back to Tabanan, take the
southbound (right) fork via the market town of
Penebel
.
