Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sangeh Monkey Forest
Sangeh • daily 9am-6pm • Entry by donation • Sangeh is served by bemos from the small Wangaya terminal in
central Denpasar; with your own transport it is an easy drive from Mengwi, 15km southwest, or around an hour
from Ubud (Sangeh also features on tour operators' schedules, usually on an area tour)
Monkeys have a special status in Hindu religion, and a number of Balinese temples boast a
resident troupe, respected by devotees and fed and photographed by tourists. The 14-hectare
Monkey Forest
(Bukit Sari) in the village of
Sangeh
, 21km north of Denpasar on a minor
northbound road that connects Denpasar with Kintamani via Petang village, is the most at-
mospheric, its inhabitants the self-appointed guardians of
Pura Bukit Sari
.
According to local legend, the forest was created when the monkey king Hanuman attemp-
ted to squash Rama's enemy Rawana between two halves of Mount Meru. They say part of
the mountain fell to earth at Sangeh with hordes of Hanuman's simian retainers still clinging
to the trees. The mossy grey-stone
temple
among sacred nutmeg trees was built during the
seventeenth century. It's out of bounds to everyone except the monkeys, but beyond the walls
you can see a huge Garuda statue, stonecarved reliefs and tiered, thatched
meru
. The place is
at its best in late afternoon, when the tour groups leave and the place can assume an almost
ghostly aspect. Whenever you visit, take heed of the warnings about the
monkeys
: keep cam-
eras and jewellery out of sight and remove all food from bags and pockets.
MEET THE FAMILY: TUNJUK
The tiny, traditional village of
Tunjuk
, 9km north of central Tabanan, hosts an interesting
“village life” programme for tourists organized through
Taman Sari Buwana
($68 includ-
ing transfers and lunch; reserve ahead on 0361 742 5929,
balivillagelife.com
)
. Book
ahead and you'll have a chance to visit to the local elementary school and a typical house
compound that is home to fifteen different families (all related). Other activities include a
rice-farming demonstration, local walks and cooking. It's not nearly the human zoo that it
might suggest and money contributes directly to the village economy.
GETTING AROUND: TABANAN AND AROUND
By bemo or bus
This area is not really worth the hassle of touring without your own trans-
port. Ubung (Denpasar)-Gilimanuk buses and bemos bypass Tabanan centre to drop passen-
gers at the major Pesiapan terminal on the northwest edge of town (also serving Gilimanuk).
Yellow city bemos shuttle into the town centre, 1.5km east. Regional services run to Kediri
(for Tanah Lot and Taman Ayun in Mengwi), plus Yeh Gangga.
By car or motorbike
Be aware that the signposted route to Pura Tanah Lot from
Kuta-Legian-Seminyak via Kerobokan could define traffic problems - expect an hour to
cover the 20km. You could also go direct from central Tabanan via Pejaten.
